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mike_va

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Posts posted by mike_va

  1. Posted

    Yes, I did not wear a wrist strap thirty years ago but things have changed. Further, damage can go undetected initially and show up later. The real problem today is that they have gotten so small - very little leakage inductance and die features have gotten incredibly small.

     

    IC's already installed are less susceptible.

     

    A quick search on google images shows some examples for the curious...

     

    Sure you can get away with it, however try installing a MOSFET sometime without any ESD protection as an experiment...

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  2. Posted

    Hi Forum,

     

    I just got this new toy, the Velleman VTS09 (http://www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=375228).

     

    But is it safe to use it in a CMOS setting?

     

    I have read that soldering irons are better than soldering guns, because the 'guns' work by shorting a current, which can damage the CMOS chip....is this true?

     

    Unfortunately, I cant see how the VTS09 works, other than it uses three AA batteries and is ready pretty quick.

     

    Thanks.

     

    A battery powered iron is not going to be grounded, I would not use that for CMOS.

     

    CMOS (complementary MOS) work with a really thin oxide layer for the gate, doesn't take much to break that down. While the inputs usually have protection diodes I would not risk it (i.e. they need something to conduct to, which if your installing is not there).

     

    The problem with ESD is that it can cause latent damage which only becomes apparent later. Also good practice to use a wrist strap and dissipative mat.

     

    Also get a temp controlled iron or gun, irons are a lot easier to use on tiny parts. Get a weller. Guns are usually for bigger things that suck up heat.

  4. Posted

    Mike,

     

    What is your impression of Companion thus far (now that you appear to have gotten the kink worked out)? I have an install which includes 2 x P3367-VE, 2 x M5014s, and 1 x 212PTZ. I'm thinking that companion is so new I might want to wait until the bugs are fleshed out of version 1 before considering it for a client installation, and either go with Camera Station or third party VMS. Do you know if any other VMS products can access the recorded clips on Axis cameras, e.g. Milestone?

     

    Thanks

    I thought it was pretty slick and easy to set up (aside from my rant above), but if you're doing a real install (I am a hobbyist) I would stick with something that has been around and stood the test of time. Same reason our IT dept at work is always a version or two behind on windows - the latest in software is not something I would want my reputation based on, people want stuff that works correctly.

     

    I'm not aware of other software that could access the clips, aside from using the camera page - which no one is going to want to do. Never did get the 4:3 bug worked out on the P3346, locked up my camera hard a few times and said that's enough of that.

     

    Eventually this will be killer for hobbyists and small business, it is that easy. No computer to record on, no VMS licenses to pay for.

     

    Now that it sounds like they have some real low light cameras coming out Q1602 and new variants of the P3344 etc, things should start to get interesting.

  6. Posted

    Came downstairs and my P1344's were blinking (yes the big orange LED's on them). Had been playing around with ACC, but nothing was set to record. Powered on/off checked settings etc.

     

    However, somehow the NAS had frozen (first time in two years of continuous use).

     

    AND

     

    Turns out Axis sets a rule, to blink if the NAS is not there...

     

    As their brochure says "Cutting-edge digital surveillance has never been this easy"

     

    Well, it might be a tad easier if they had someone write a @#@%@$ manual. They used to know how to write manuals too.

     

    OK, done venting. My bad really for playing around with new software...I know better. I should've just stopped when it froze up my P3346 a few days ago.

     

    And I should just put black tape over that monster LED...always comes ON when you reapply power even if it is set to OFF.

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  9. Posted

    Hi Mike.

     

    The 4mm was just an example. Very short focal length lenses at high f/ratios suffer from multiple diffraction effects. Actually the F/ratio of the lens is the deciding factor. Of course faster lenses are both harder to produce and design with limited lens aberrations. A typical 1/3 Sony Super HAD II CCD has pixels about 4.6 microns in size. The diameter of the diffraction limited spot size of a perfect optical system is given by 2.44 X wavelength of light used X the lens F/stop. So lets say you have your 8-80 set at 8mm or 80mm it doesn't matter, if the iris stops down more than about f/3.5 the diffraction spot size of the lens will be bigger than the pixels on your CCD sensor. That is if your lens was optically perfect and you were viewing a daylight scene. ( 2.44 x .55 X 3.5 = 4.697microns. Say you used the lens at night with typical IR illumination on... then your perfect lens would start to lose sharpness due to diffraction at about f/2.2. Again this is for a perfect lens. The lens aberrations of most lenses hide this phenomenon to some extent. Now think of my previous f/32 example. Using the diffraction formula the diffraction limited spot size would be 43 microns. Almost 10 times your pixel diameter!

     

    So even with an IR corrected lens the resolution of your camera can never equal day light performance since you are using a longer wavelength of light. The ND star helps this problem by keeping the F/ratio from getting too high. Like when someone is close to your camera and IR source and the iris needs to close to maintain the correct exposure. Since the star is maybe 10% of the lens area you lose a little less than that since the star is not completely opaque. I know the 10% seems like a lot however there are many other light losses in the camera system. For a single example you lose 4% at each surface of the glass window protecting your camera. And that does nothing to improve the performance of your camera system.

     

    I tend to personally like IR corrected aspheric lenses. Since they really do provide sharper images at wide f/ratios. Also since they are hyperapochromatic they work better in visible light too. Fujinon's IR corrected lenses are easy to spot. The Fujinon name is in red lettering.

    Thank you

  10. Posted

    I was just playing with the Axis Companion a few days ago. Super easy to set up, had a few cameras going to a NAS in under a minute or two.

     

    Only works with certain of their cameras, but seemed to work pretty well.

     

    Maybe still a little buggy though, when I changed the setting for the P3346 from 16:9 to 4:3 it froze up the camera repeatedly and I had to unplug to get it responding again. Worked fine with P1344 also. Does audio flawlessly over the viewer.

     

    I just wanted to try it, as it seemed kind of neat or as a possible backup to Axis Camera Station.

     

    I could see the appeal though, as one would not need a computer for recording (and it is free). I have no experience with Mobotix, did not like to be tied to their format to get a decent framerate (aside from the cameras being pretty ugly for domestic use).

  13. Posted

    I use a Synology 211J to capture motion on one camera (Panasonic 502), in addition to other VMS. Playback is a hassle and slow, only useful for capture and having stuff archived. Has been reliable though in this simple situation. Can't believe what they try to get for the licenses, there is better out there...

  14. Posted

    I guess I was looking for more clarity in the people and moving objects. Identification shots from around my cars, etc. I can ID people, but generally if I know them already. I guess it's really only good for a general description and a height/weight thing, no real facial detail.

    Yep, not a bad pic but pretty wide so not a lot of pixels/ft. There's a lot of good info out there. Typical is 40 for identification, 80 is a good pic though and what I shoot for around the house. You can do it with MP cameras, or have one analog zoomed in to get that shot (especially useful if there is a spot someone always walks through) and one for overview.

  17. Posted

    Mike Va,

     

    Some lenses, particularly short focal length ones, may reach their diffraction limit before they could stop down enough to provide brightness control.

    That sounds like it makes sense, but I saw a 8-80mm lens for example that had one. I can't understand why they would want to give up the sensitivity at night. It was IR corrected so meant to be used day night.

  21. Posted

    Is it just me or does the Axis seem out of focus at night?

    It could use some adjustment, but that post light in the front yard really messes things up for me and makes it difficult. I need to do something about that. The image is still very usable, though.

    You can also set up focus and exposure windows on the Axis.

  22. Posted · Edited by Guest

    Nice, I have a P3346 as well on the driveway.

     

    There is a lot you can do with them, send motion detect ftp to NAS, set a schedule to switch day night etc. Not the "best" with low light but if you have enough light they work well. Plus they have a mic built in. I keep the shutter at 1/30-1/50 min otherwise you'll have a lot of blur. Have fun!

     

    They say 20fps for 3MP, 30fps for 2MP. I run mine I think around 10fps. Note that pic is probably not 3MP, given the aspect ratio. Should be better though at ~6-10x improvement in resolution compared to analog.

     

    You can also set up a view area and send that stream somewhere else. Work well with multiple streams also.

     

    Edit: to get the shutter speeds first select motion priority on the exposure otherwise they remain hidden. That took me a while to figure out just thought I'd mention.

  23. Posted

    Perhaps this has been covered but day night cams need to be focused at night. The iris opens up at night, and you'll have the least depth of field (amount in focus). During the day the iris will close, improving depth of field. I use a CNB TDN bullet (WCM-20VF) in one location and disconnected the IR.

     

    If the bad pics are the kit cameras, it looks like you might have a few things going on. One being mentioned already wrt flashback. Make sure the glass is still clean, some cheap cameras outgas and cloud the glass. If these do not have split glass this also will not help.

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