mike_va

If they must, why not get an IR camera where you can adjust the IR strength? Or, a smart IR camera. At the very least, I'd only go with a smart IR camera.

Smart IR works by adjusting the exposure, on the CNB bullets. As an aside, it only works to a point. Can't compensate for say a Raytec RM100-10, still whites out.

The difference there is that there is light that causes the iris to contract

guy putting a flyer in the door...color pic is an Axis P3346 (cropped) covering the driveway

Nice work....

 

I have mine tied into my doorbell. When someone pushes the button the system emails me images from multiple cameras and the system auto bookmarks the video.

 

This is one of the images that is emailed to me plus you have all of the video that is auto bookmarked.

Nice, wish we had a spot like that archway to stash a real camera.

Maybe in 5 or 10 years we will have tiny inexpensive MP cameras

I would consider doubling up on cam1 and put on left and right of garage, since you have a gable to hide them in. Can get both cars in driveway, and front door/gate with good resolution. Besides a lot of trouble can come in through the garage, as most people do not alarm them...or leave the doors open...

Do you have the call box working or is it just a dummy for the camera?

House came with an intercom system (Nutone), which we have never used. Also, we can now play seasonal music out the speaker as we have an access point in the basement (Christmas party etc).

Was not thinking (enough ahead of time), or I would have had pulled a shielded pair. At the moment I'm using one pair for +, one for -. Again, not thinking. And we pick up a radio station on the 243. Next step is to try using the twisted pairs for +/- (and maybe filtering), if that fails we'll need to pull more wires. Dreading it actually with the camera, Nutone wires and 2x cat5 it is pretty snug in there...

That part was really an add on idea at the last second, we paid a local guy to fish the wires. Originally was going to do one, then I thought Cat5 is cheap just as easy to do two and we'll have access to the speaker. Took him 40 minutes, which is hours less than it would have taken us...we paid him for an hour $65.

Does not do well in low light, but has a nice picture during the day (1/4" CMOS) screen shot saved as jpg. Progressive scan and a fast shutter works great for this spot. Have captured squirrels jumping between the trees, hawks, etc.

We use this under the deck, looking through the latticework.

http://www.axis.com/products/m11_series/

This 1/4" vinyl material is very useful. Cut to size for the slots, single screw mounts camera. Slide it in from the back. Enclosure is mounted upside down, and is nice because it is easy to adjust and does not move once set (pretty easy to pick up for about $20 ea).

Actually swapped out a P1344 (which was a tight fit in this enclosure) to use elsewhere, when we got a deal we could not pass up on the M1113. Do miss the autofocus on the P1344 though...

Lens is a standard 5-50mm Bosch.

How do state IRE for IP camera ?

or how would u measure ?

Sony does it, not possible?

http://www.sony.co.uk/biz/b2b/business/product/nvmfixedcameras2/snc-ch120/technicalspecs

I've also used the WCM-20VF, same sensitivity as the dome but in a bullet form factor. I disconnect the IR though and use other lighting (just unscrew the cover and unplug the wires). Good sensitivity, if you're worried about burglaries make sure you have a few that are zoomed in and a few for overview is how we do it.

If you have enough light (we use mostly CLF's) you can even run these in color at night and get a good pic.

The domes are nice in that people do not notice them as much perhaps. Kind of balancing act, are visible cameras a deterrent or do they say I have stuff to steal?

i like and agree with Avigilon's answer.

I would agree with it if they dispensed with the lux rating altogether. If one states lux rating they should back it up with scene, shutter speed, lens and IRE like Bosch.

And some example pics, package delivery and a pic at night.

Does fine at night with the lighting out front (a few small 3W LED candelabra).

Mounting as shown was temporary for alignment. Top piece of vinyl board was trimmed, and camera was angled compared to the picture. Opening was a 3/32 hole, which does cut off the edges of the picture slightly since the camera ultimately was angled in the enclosure.

After the mounting and angle was worked out both pieces of vinyl board were secured using hot glue.

Although the camera is rated 0.02 lux, this is perhaps with a normal board lens. With a pinhole it compares to Bosch ratings of 0.1lux. Note: the camera as received was slightly "soft", loosening the small lens set screw allowed it to be more finely focused.

Cat 5 was run to the enclosure, and baluns used. Allowed us to get rid of the camera sitting in the front window (which we never quite got used to the look of). Now use this to get notification photos via email of deliveries.

Just for kicks I contacted Avigilon and got this response on the lux rating vs. shutter speed:

"Avigilon does not provide the details of the test to determine our Lux Ratings because there is no formal industry standards and the actual Lux readings will change depending on the scene environment. Even given an f/stop and exposure it’s still matters what the reflectivity of materials in the scene is and what you require to recognize as acceptable ‘signal’ in SW.

We recommend testing the cameras for the specific scene conditions to determine if it is acceptable and meets the expectations in the environment required."

Axis does provide the details if you ask, I think it was at 1/6s if memory serves on the P1344.

You could look at the Osram safety guidelines, it shows you need a fair amount of IR power to get into the safety levels. That is what they say anyway.

 

http://catalog.osram-os.com/catalogue/catalogue.do?act=showBookmark&favOid=00000007000098c70001003a

 

Application Note Eye Safety

This application note describes the possible hazards of infrared LEDs (IREDs) used for lamp applications

 

Wow! Good stuff there. A little over my head, though.

 

I'll advise the clients to put welding goggles on the kid just to be safe.

Look at it this way, they needed to use lenses and a fair amount of power (I think around 15W or so for one of the cases) to get into trouble. The little LED's in bullet cameras have a lot less output, and are maybe run at a watt or two total.

The new surface mount IR puts out an impressive amount, compared to the crappy little LED's in bullets.

Now for some perspective look at the old Bosch Derwent docs for the halogen, lotta concentrated power and they had some distance guidelines. Still for the amount of power consumed not that much output.

You could look at the Osram safety guidelines, it shows you need a fair amount of IR power to get into the safety levels. That is what they say anyway.

http://catalog.osram-os.com/catalogue/catalogue.do?act=showBookmark&favOid=00000007000098c70001003a

Application Note Eye Safety

This application note describes the possible hazards of infrared LEDs (IREDs) used for lamp applications

I shall also post the settings of the camera. I believe from memory this is set at 1/50. 1/30 at night left just a little too much motion blur for my liking, especially with just the garden lighting. I am hoping that with ample IR floodlighting that I may be able to even bring this down to 1/100, but that may be ambitious.

Looks like a nice usable pic for 5MP and 1/50.

I leave my P3346 set at 1/60s at night, due to blur (I have 2 100W equivalent lights on the side of the garage).

Avigilon 5mp dome, 300W floodlight, garden lights are 17w, distance from camera to top of image aprox 125ft. Sorry, don't know lumens from each light, will check.

Do you happen to know how you have that set up for shutter speed?

I would be interested to know if your running 5400 to 7200 speed HDs and what manufacture.

The best I can do is say I think it was a Toshiba 2TB for ACS.

Foxes don't like 850nm, I've seen them walk out around my IR. Does not bother the raccoons, cats, possum or deer though.

yep. system runs analytics so I generally save the fox clips

The cars on my road go surprisingly fast for down hill into a cul-de-sac. 35 mph is common.

We have the same problem on the roads with hills, soccer mom in a Lexus SUV talking on the cell/kids in back/sipping a 'gourmet' coffee...good luck.

Just remember to adjust up the amount of IR you need by shutter speed and however much you cut the AGC. Could try some test pics at a slower shutter to get the AGC dialed in tested with the CNB IR, then factor in the increase in shutter speed to see what you need.

MP CMOS (or CCD) is definitely not as sensitive as analog (partly smaller pixles, CMOS vs. CCD etc). Get some longpass material that will make your life a lot easier controlling headlights etc. If you are only doing plates stick with a tight beam, as that will really help your distance. I've played with a CCD MP (Pan 502) and it was not well suited to plate capture (at night). During the day gorgeous pic though. The 484 is also more sensitive than the 502 at night, for an equivalent shutter speed.

Cutting by 2x is a good rule for 1-60s (cut by more for 1/500 - 1/1000). On the other hand we are helped somewhat by the fact that the plates are much more reflective than say people. I would start on the high side and back it down adjusting the power.

I cover at 80 yards a 30 ft width with 2 P1344's and a RM100-10, but I'm not doing it at that fast of a shutter speed either (trying to make the cameras do double duty). I'm helped due to the fact that the cars are going fairly slow, so I'm not at your shutter speed. I'd count on being around 4-6x less sensitive as a rough guesstimate playing around with analog and MP.

If you have a narrow spot analog really helps, since you can do a high shutter speed AND cut the AGC which will help with headlights. That is really the problem with trying to do two things with one camera - at a high shutter speed and low AGC which will give you a beautiful plate you won't see much else.

Raytec has also started making units that can have coverage angle that can be modified by slipping in a diffusor, which is what my Bosch BDS does (i.e. 10deg LED's, semi clear piece of plastic to get 30deg).

Be aware that with the Raytec etc 850 people/teens will see/notice and wonder WTF. If you are technical you can make your own, the Osram LED's are ~5-7 each, lens is $2 ea. They run them at ~1.5W ea so if you look at the power rating you can determine how many LED's they are using. You will need to work out the thermal management/mounting, and have a constant current source power supply (I have an HP that works well). Once again, a tight angle helps distance more than adding LED's. You can probably end up at 1/3-1/2 the cost, but definite hassle as you need to weatherproof, factor in your time etc. You also need to be able to deal with the surface mount aspect, as the LED's have a pad underneath the part to allow good thermal transfer (solder paste, heat gun or similar etc).

940 still glows red just not as much, if using the new surface mount LED's.

Here is what cheap CMOS or CCD for that matter cannot do. Indoors and outdoors correctly exposed, strong light outside. Also, this camera has black that is very black - better than Bosch etc. Also does a very good red.

Picked up used 75, would I rather have that or a cheap camera no contest. The Qsee bullets we have are just for overview, and mounted in spots where I don't want a big camera sticking out. The inexpensive cameras are good at close range and certain lighting situations, which is all some people need.

Bosch 495 full afternoon sun