Soundy

Welcome aboard!

It doesn't even define a "high-def" PTZ, only "high resolution" (which in standard CCTV parlance, could mean anything 520TVL and up). It doesn't say that the PTZ needs to be 5MP.

I delete them, ban them, and block IPs when necessary, but since I can't sit here monitoring 24/7, sometimes a few posts get through for a while. I'm just a moderator though, so that's about the limit of what I can do. I know this version of phpBB has the ability to put new users on "moderated" status for their first "X" number of posts (where the posts don't appear until they've been approved, until the user has a set number of posts), but so far that hasn't been implemented. The other option is that an admin has to approve all new registrations, but that can get time-intensive for the admin.

That's a screamin' deal. $250 for one would be a good deal... for two? No-brainer. (Assuming they're in proper working order, of course).

Wow...

Mine has a standard tripod thread; at some point, I'll probably just pick up a GorillaPod to go with it:

That, I don't know... I've used the 16-channel units on a couple sites now, though, and they're working great. Would be even happier if they were 24VAC, but hey, for the price... I guess if I wanted to, it wouldn't be hard to modify the thing for 24V and add PTCs (if it doesn't already have them). Try contacting Annie in their western office, 626-961-8810, if you have questions - she's been extremely helpful for me.

First thing would be to go to site and run Wireshark or some kind of data-capture/traffic-logging utility and see how much bandwidth you're actually using, before pinning it on the switch or NIC or anything else in particular. Could still be the VMS, the camera configuration themselves... any number of things.

"Switch Fabric 12.8Gbps forwarding capacity" - according to the link above.

Best way to do it would be to run all the cameras into an IP encoder and send it over via WiFi, recording to an NVR or hybrid system on the other side. Or run the cameras into their own DVR on the one side, and use the WiFi bridge or even just an internet connection from the other side to access them via VMS. What do you already have in place?

Starlight cameras work great as long as there's nothing moving.

I've been using mostly GEM baluns for ages - never noticed a difference, and they're a fraction of the price of the MuxLab & NVT. Forget power pass-through, how about a UTP hub *with power supply* built in? Lately I've been using these, and they work great: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev16p-vps.htm If there's room behind the camera, I'll use one of these as well: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev01p-vp.htm (since these are mostly CNB cameras with the screw terminals, I just snip off the barrel plug). If there's not room and I need to fit everything in the CNB back-box, I'll use the GEM mini-baluns: http://gemelec.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=721&category_id=72&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 and just split out the UTP ends.

Is that 14/2 feeding lighting on the poles? You DO NOT want to run low- and high-voltage in a conduit together - besides it being against code in most areas, it's just inviting interference into your video. I mean, I've seen it done, it would probably work, but I wouldn't recommend it. To the other part of the question: yes, you can run four video signals over a single Cat5 (or Cat3 or Cat6 for that matter). How are you powering the cameras? 300' is much to far to power one 12v IR camera over even three pairs of UTP.

That's exactly what it is... and it looks like most of the cameras around the place are mounted that way... lot of them have wires dangling down from where it runs along the tops of the ceiling beams, too. Scary. It's clear what they were TRYING to do: this one is at the top of an escalators, and if it was in place, would be looking right down the escalator. As it is now, it's looking at the floor at the top of the escalator *facepalm*

Saw this gem at Ikea today, of all places...

ALL of that depends on the system you use. Some simply limit the number of cameras, some limit the highest resolution, some both... some may limit the total bandwidth (so you could have 10 cameras at low compression or 15 at higher compression)... Some hybrids will allow a certain total number of channels, with any mix of analog/IP you choose... some will give you "X" number of analog channels and "Y" number of IP and they're not interchangeable... and so on. There are so many options and variations it's not funny. Another option is to go with a straight NVR and use analog cameras with IP encoders... It will... with a caveat: if the two modules are on separate legs of the phase (or worse, on separate phases), your speed will be severely reduced, and may not be enough for megapixel. Speed can also be affected by noise on the circuit, such as may be caused by heavy equipment or motors starting up.

Just FYI, Avigilon is far from the only CCTV vendor that doesn't post consumer pricing, and for which pricing is hard to find. The same applies to the upper level of any area of technology, whether you're talking CCTV, home theater... even cars. If you want to buy a Kia, you'll find people throwing pricing and deals in your face... if you want a Ferrari, you'll have to do a little digging and you'll find a limited number of dealers. It's also not uncommon for some manufacturers to sell only through integrators, who can properly design, spec, and install a complete system to take full advantage of their equipment. People who don't know what they're doing, running out and buying expensive gear, slapping it together in some half-assed manner, and then blaming the gear all over the internet when it has problems or doesn't perform as expected, is far too common in MANY fields, especially this one (not saying you're one of them). It's not a conspiracy to gouge, it's just a different way to do business. This really is an industry where you get what you pay for.

Rory, I have a whole bag of them in th closet that has never been used. I thought those were the worst connections to use Uh-oh, now you've done it...

I've been using those same ICM units with my Paladin SealTite tool, they work great. One thing that's really nice about them is the plastic sleeve that presents at the wire entry, to guide the center conductor through. The one thing that drives me nuts, is the plastic dispenser tube they ship in, but now I just slice that open and dump them into a parts bin As tom notes, getting the right stripping lengths is important, but that applies to any BNC design... and I've actually found these fittings to be more forgiving of varying lengths than most others.

We have a couple of those in one site... they're good in the day; not so much at night, as they're not a day/night camera.

We ended up using the EntryVue two-wire system... the old Mircom was a four-wire so we were fine using only a single pair. Worked quite well with five screen/intercom stations and two camera/door stations.

My experience, once it's all factored together, there really isn't a huge difference once all the parts are considered... and of course, assuming you're comparing apples to apples (such the aforementioned Panasonic cameras, where the two are actually the same internals), as well as comparing similar-quality lenses. Heater and fan aren't always necessary, so don't think that you HAVE to have them... the point is that cheap housings don't generally offer the options IF you do. It really depends on the amount of detail you want. If you want to read plates, analog should be fine; if you want to read the date stickers on a plate, you may need megapixel. Keep in mind that as the resolution goes up, light sensitivity goes down, so if you need something to give you good image with low light, you may find it preferable to stay with analog. There's really a lot of factors to consider for the specific purpose. Of course, if you're thinking you may want to go MP later (and since you're experimenting, you probably want to plan for some flexibility), you'll definitely want to wire the camera with Cat5.

Depends on the area. I've seen a lot of cameras stolen, and enclosures are by far the most common to go, because they're the easiest to remove, especially when they're hanging off a wall... not always with a rope, sometimes guys will just climb some handy piece of equipment (things like ice machines, display cases, etc., when dealing with retail locations), jump up, and just hang off the thing until it rips out of the wall. Sometimes if it's high enough, they'll just go on the roof, lean over, and remove mounting bolts. Seen plenty on pedestal mounts on rooftops and parapets removed by guys climbing on the roof too. And yeah, I've even had a dome or two removed by someone tossing a rope over them and hanging off it.

Looks like electrical interference, probably from a motor or something of the sort, something that's got some arcing going on. Does it do this all the time?

Not particularly. Keep in mind that a "dedicated outdoor camera" (I assume you're talking dome or bullet style) is camera, housing, AND LENS (and sometimes IR LEDs). With a box cam, you still need housing AND LENS (and sometimes external LEDs). There's more room in an separate enclosure for larger lenses... in most cases you're probably not going to find that's an issue, unless you need to go really long-range. There's no PARTICULAR reason a box camera should be higher or lower quality than any other design - in fact, several cameras are available, same internals, in both box and dome designs. Case in point (one that I use regularly) is the Panasonic 504 (and older 484) SuperDynamic models - WV-CP504 for the box version, WV-CW504 for the dome model. There's even a super-short 15-50mm lens available that fits inside the dome , Yeah, keep in mind, a lot of those aren't fully or properly sealed, aren't at all vandal resistant, aren't very sturdy, and don't include heater or blower options. I've seen lots of cheap housings where the seals degraded over a very short period of time, and the only thing that saved them from leaking was a decent rain-shedding design (I've also seen plenty that DID leak as the seals failed, and destroyed the camera). A GOOD outdoor enclosure is easily going to run you $60-$100. There is that... they also tend to be a lot easier to steal, if that's a concern in your area - it's easy to toss a rope over a wall-mounted housing and yank it down.