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shockwave199

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Posts posted by shockwave199


  1. If you're talking dvr's, this is the best in my opinion-

     

    http://www.securitycameraking.com/8-channel-ultimate-mini-series-59081-prd1.html

     

    Web service will get you into any of the units for tweaking and PSS will open up all systems at once for viewing and even more tweaking per system.

     

    As for nvr's, I prefer dahua as well. And while the resolution is much better than analog, for an eight channel system filled out with eight mega pixel cameras, times 3, you're looking at a way bigger budget. Plus mega pixel cameras can be finicky too. Short term long term, high def systems can be higher maintenance whereas analog, if installed well, is set it and forget it once it's all dialed in. But if you really have the budget, HD is the way to go and if you should choose dahua, all the above about web service and PSS applies as well. I have a video on a 4 channel nvr and a great place to score them as well. Good luck.


  2. It was not my intention to make you feel stupid. I spent a good deal of my time trying to write as pointed as I could to try and help you- a very good deal of my time in fact. The problem is it's too difficult to put into words really, and you are left to your own means to flounder on your own trying to apply what someone tells you to do. One, or a series of wrong guesses on your part can be destructive to an otherwise working wireless network, which makes it harder and harder to get back from on your own. I would take varascope up on his offer to help you personally. PM him and it could help you more. If that's not a solution, than a friend or family member who's good at gaming will probably know the process of networking your dvr because gaming often involves the same type of networking chores when you get into xbox and such. I purposefully do not make it a habit of trying to lead someone through networking on forums for this reason- it often proves futile in non-real time. Note to self, do not get involved in the future ever again.

     

    Sorry my attempt didn't work out, but it wasn't from a lack of being patient and persistent on my part to try and help you. And again, my best advise is to have someone there, or remotely in real time, walk you through. Once you do it successfully, you'll learn it. You are not stupid. It can be confusing until you do it properly and understand it. Good luck.


  3. Where are you from OP? I wouldn't buy the same camera I linked to from China to save 500 bucks, if you're in the states. You could blow that savings in return shipping if there's a problem. It's really best to buy from a vendor that stocks them in the states. I'm not pushing SCK- that camera can be had elsewhere from other great vendors in the states.

     

    About PTZ's, I agree with Varascope to a certain extent. The more you work a ptz the more chance you have of it failing over time. For commercial installs, that's certainly valid. For residential though, it's not always a given you have the thing touring every second of it's life. I've had my 500 dollar hong kong ptz from ebay going on three years now. It's still doing very well. Sometimes I tour, sometimes I put it in auto tracking mode, sometimes I use the IR and sometimes I don't. I've mentioned before that for me it's not about constant movement- it's about the ability to change positions and focal range when I need to. I have two presets that I monitor at different times a day. I schedule the camera to switch between the two each day. That's not a heck of a lot of movement. It's gets the biggest workout when I'm at it and noodling with it or I really do put it in a tour or scan for a while. But that dahua there is a beast. I use the analog version at work. It's heavy- it's a tank. And it's a quality camera- love the thing. But I wouldn't buy from China just to save some money, but that's me.


  4. Don't be fooled by look a likes. What brand nvr and cameras have you committed to? With nvr systems, it's usually best to stick with the same brand so you know you have compatibility. If you can't afford that, than don't gamble on no names. Analog would be different and less expensive for a ptz camera, and the choices would be more flexible. Not so with nvr's. Get a compatible camera that you know will work.


  5. don't know who the manufacturer is, and its $480... i need to get some suggestions, how many megapixel is this and is this 720p?

    It's a mystery isn't it. What does that tell you? How's the software to control that camera? Another mystery. Cheap is cheap, cheap is expensive. You either risk throwing away that 480 bucks or you put it towards a quality camera that does what it says it will do. Or in the case of your example- actually SAYS what it will do. Good luck.


  6. Since you have the IR version, in the day/night menu be sure it's set to auto1. Next try the IR WDR Level. Try each setting, that being off through high. With a setting of low, middle high, see how strong the IR is with each setting. It looks like you can adjust the IR within those settings from a 0-6 value as well. It's best to just adjust those settings to get an understanding of what they do. It's likely a sort of smart IR adjustment to avoid over saturating with IR as someone moves closer to the camera. Your problem however, seems to be that the IR isn't coming on. If you don't get BW and IR in auto1 mode, try auto2, although that seems to be for non IR cameras. It could still be worth a try if auto1 isn't working well. In auto2, try D/N [day/night sensitivity] to middle. Try filter delay on 5 seconds. That can help keep the camera from switching to night mode to quickly or back to day mode to quickly. Try putting night burst on, which can help lighten up the overall image when it goes into night mode, but can come at a cost of a more noisy image too. So try it off and on and see which is better, although you may have to try that setting on two separate nights as that is a quick setting that takes effect when initally switching over to night mode. Try one night with it on and the next night with it off and see. It looks like the 'initial set' is to save the setting in that menu so they take effect, which will probably cancel out auto1 and engage auto2 at night fall. I would keep all exposure settings at default. The only other thing you can try, if your day/night settings aren't quite getting you there, is sens up. It defaults at 8x so raise it incrementally. The balance you want to reach is that of a brighter night picture, but stop before it gets too noisy, and once set, confirm that moving objects don't become blurry. Sens up can be useful if it's at just the right amount, not too strong and not too weak. Good luck.


  7. I had a security company come and quote, but they quoted 650 TVL system with TruVision DVR11 (trying to understand why they would use such low res cameras and Analog vs IP, this is a new install), would 650 TVL be adequate for a parking lot monitoring system day/night? or should I be looking into IP network/cameras?

    It's not a given that all installers know their way around an IP/MP system. They tend to install what they know well, which helps the install be problem free and helps to diagnose problems that might come up, because they know the equipment so well. Either that or you stipulated a budget well below the cost of an HD system. The details of the area you want to monitor matter big time to determine whether an HD system will fall within your budget. Just because you hang three 3mp hikvison cameras doesn't mean you'll be able to ID suspects at a shed 100' away in the dark- faces or plates for that matter. It's not that simple and believe it or not, well placed analog cameras could do the job too. It's best to either install cameras at the shed entrances or if you can't, figure out what focal length you'll need for a camera installed further away so that you have a chance at ID if someone breaks into your sheds. And sure, have a camera or two showing just a wide view of the property- that's important too. The camera that can be the best help to you will be the ones at the entrance to the lot- the choke point at which you can really get specific fields of view for ID of people and license plates. I would first suggest that you consider the worth of what you're monitoring. If it's cheap garbage in sheds and an empty lot, fine, hang three cameras and have a look but expect almost nothing to yield ID when you need it. If you're doing it because you have expensive gear in that area and it matters in a big way, you'll have to expand on what you think you need in terms of a system. It amuzes me how often people want a simple system, until they have an incident and the system they installed fails them and all of a sudden it dawns on them- surveillance is not that simple.


  8. You wrote the address as this

     

    hik-online/xyzsecurityHIK:8001

     

    Maybe it should be

     

    hik-online.xyzsecurityHIK:8001

     

    Just a wild gues- I have no clue really. Sometimes it's just the address that you don't have just right. Perhaps include HTTP:// in front as well. I also agree that no-ip is great and if your nvr hardware has it embedded in DDNS, it will act as the updater and make it hassle free.


  9. My dvr and ptz are analog. Since making that video, I've switched to a dahua dvr. All footage is recorded to the internal hard drive in the dahua. The choice of mega pixel or analog is up to you. I don't usually have the camera in tour mode. That's something I engage whenever I wish to.

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