dtdoak

I'm using a GV-800 card, which has 4 audio ports. Does anyone know if it's possible to reassign any of the audio ports to a camera not that's not on ports 1 thru 4? In other words, I'd like to have audio on camera 5. It appears as if GeoVision only allows audio on cameras 1 thru 4. My system has 5 cameras, but normally only 4 are activated when I'm home. I have a strange set of circumstances, where camera 5 is not normally shown (it's deactivated). When I go away I turn this special indoor hidden camera on. I'd like this camera (#5) to have audio when it's in use. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. Thanks, Dan

I'm using a GV-800 card, which has 4 audio ports. Does anyone know if it's possible to reassign any of the audio ports to a camera not that's not on ports 1 thru 4? In other words, I'd like to have audio on camera 5. It appears as if GeoVision only allows audio on cameras 1 thru 4. My system has 5 cameras, but normally only 4 are activated when I'm home. I have a strange set of circumstances, where camera 5 is not normally shown (it's deactivated). When I go away I turn this special indoor hidden camera on. I'd like this camera (#5) to have audio when it's in use. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. Thanks, Dan

Sorry for the delayed return response... was away on vacation. I was able to take a voltage reading at the camera, which has a 150ft run and it measures 22.9 VAC. I think this would be within the tolerance for most cameras to function properly, but I'm not totally sure. Also, if I cover the photo sensor with black electrical tape the camera stays in night mode. I did try and put a light colored masking tape over the sensor, hoping that some light would be enough trip cut filter in day/night mode. Unfortunately this didn't solve the problem. The camera still does not switch once there is complete darkness. There is no other light from any source, which could be reflecting within the dome. Not really sure what to try next. On a good note, when in night mode with IR the picture is extremely good. I did send a message to EverFocus about my issue, but they never responded. Concerns me about their customer service. I'll send another note to EverFocus. Thanks for everyone's feedback. Appreciated.

I put a dark blanket around/over the dome, but the mechanical filter still didn't switch to night mode; waited a couple minutes to be sure. I did this at night to be certain no light would enter the lens. I opened a problem ticket with EverFocus. This is the first camera I've used from them... hopefully this is not a common problem with their true day/night cameras. Very disappointed. Thanks for the help.

I have a new camera installed; EverFocus EHD525EX. This is an outdoor true day/night dome camera with a cut filter. I'm having trouble with the cut filter switching at night. If I cover the photo sensor the camera will switch to night mode in 20-30 seconds; you can hear the clicking sound and the picture is B&W. In complete darkness, without the photo sensor covered it often does not switch to night mode. There is no other lights near by which would prevent the camera from switching Can anything be done to force the cut filter to kick in when light is low? Would adjusting the Iris ALC or Iris level help? The camera is set to AGC on. The camera is using 24VAC with 150' run. Just confused as to why it's not always switching between day/night modes. Appreciate the help.[/u]

I have a new camera installed; EverFocus EHD525EX. This is an outdoor true day/night dome camera with a cut filter. I'm having trouble with the cut filter switching at night. If I leave the smoked dome cover off the camera 'usually' switches to night mode just fine. If the cover is on it usually does 'not' switch to night mode in low light. Can anything be done to force the cut filter to kick in when light is low? Would adjusting the Iris ALC or level help? If I cover the photo sensor it switches to night within 30 seconds. Just confused as to why is not always switching. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the valuable input. Looks like I did not really understand the difference between the DC & Video IR lenses. Currently the Ganz camera has a 8.5-40mm DC lens. All I wanted to do was change the focal factor. Instead I got caught up with IR factor. Just wanted a good D/N lens with 3.5-10.5mm. Guess I'll have to see if I can exchange it for the DC lens. Do I want model TG3Z3510FCS or TG3Z3510FCS-IR? Is there a real difference with the DC IR model? This forum has been so valuable. There are true experts with lots of experience found. Thanks again.

Thanks for the very quick response. Actually I'm changing the lens for this camera from DC to video IR. I chose this lens since it would work better in low-light. Is there a way this lens can be used with the Ganz ZC-NH255N camera. I can't believe CBC sells video IR lenses without a proper connector for their GANZ cameras. I have the Pro-Pak kit for 3 cameras, which are wonderful units. Thanks for the reply.

Just purchased a video auto iris Computar lens; model TG3Z3510AFCS-IR. This lens is for a GANZ camera (ZC-NH255N). Unfortunately I do not understand how to connect the lens cable to the camera. At the end of the lens cable are 3 wires; red, black, & white, which are bare (no connector). I was expecting a connector at the end of the lens cable, which would plug directly into the camera iris port. I realize the red is positive & black is negative... just not sure how I can connect to the iris port, since the camera has a typical 4-pin iris input connector. Do I need to purchase a connector for the lens cable? I've purchased 3 GANZ cameras with lens already installed on the camera.. these already had the lens cable with a connector. The other lens were DC lens. Not sure why CBC would make a lens without a cable connector. Any help is appreciated. Dan

Another thought... I was also considering a Dome camera made by EverFocus. It's model EHD350/H1, which supposely works in very cold temperatures (-40). This camera is more covert, but I'm not really sure if it stands up to a box camera. It's rated at .5 lux at F1.2. Link: http://www.everfocus.com/product.asp?id=54 Again, I need a D/N camera that is excellent at night (with no outdoor lighting, other than separate IR) and can withstand temperatures down -5F; vari-focus would be nice to. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Thanks again.

Thanks for everyone's response. It's truly appreciated. Currently I have 2 bullet cameras (9100EX Korean Generic) with IR, which supposedly are similar to Speco HT-7815DNV. This is why I was asking about CNB bullets. These work OK, but wish they were better in daylight and night. After hearing the responses I've decided to go with a heated housing (maybe Pelco EH2508) and a color/bw Box camera. I was hoping to keep the total cost of each camera (need 2 cameras) under $400. I still need to do more research on box cameras. I was a thread where Rory liked the GE KTC2000DN. The specs are great, although it seems large. I kinda would like the smallest housing and camera I can get to make it covert as possible. On another note, I have a EX82DXL, which I purchased sometime ago on eBay. The camera was used and I had it serviced by Extreme CCTV. The camera is awesome, especially at night. I have turned the IR down to about 2/3's the normal output and it can easily see 70 feet very effectively. This camera is mounted in a tree, about 30 high. Which I could afford another EX82DXL. Here's 2 more questions: 1) If I use a good box D/N camera with a cut filter, how good will the camera work with a separately mounted IR illuminator? 2) Does in make a difference on what wave length I use (850, 930nm)? Sorry if these questions seem dumb. This is the second phase of a self installation. This forum has been very valuable. Regards to all.

I'm interested in adding a couple more cameras to my existing system. Has anyone used any of the CNB cameras. I'm specially interested in infrared day/night outdoor cameras that can work down to -10F. I'm trying to stay within $300 per camera? Any help or other camera suggestions are appreciated.

I'm using mothballs. I put mothballs in an old sock and drape it over the mounting. Every so often I see a moth fly by, but they don't stick around. This approach has worked to keep spiders away too... no more spiders making their webs in front of the lens. You'll have to replace the mothballs about once a year.

Right now I'm probably going with the 9100EX, which is similar to the Speco HT-7815DNV. I already have a switching power supply from Samlex, which puts out 13.8VDC 23amps. What's nice about this power supply is it only draws on what the demand is. I use this for ameteur radio equipment. Here's a site with the specs, if anyone is interested. http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamps/3747.html

If anyone is interested, I found a website that calculates the voltage drop. You can check it out at: http://www.securalarm.com/SAS/Calculator.htm I'd like to know the algorithm to do this calculation. Hope this is helpful.