jondilly

1) The internal joysticks are quite common on higher end cameras. It is actually preferred by installers to have the controls placed there. Other styles of cameras either don't offer controls at all, or have them on the wire dongle where they are harder to reach once the camera is mounted. 2) What you are talking about here is called IR reflection. It is a common issue if your lens does not have a foam ring that protrudes from the lens up to the glass of the dome. If your specific camera does not have an IR ring, you can fashion one out of some foam yourself. 3) All IR lighting will show some red glow from certain angles. While the human eye cannot see the illumination provided by the IR lamps, we can see the LEDs glowing when in operation. I don't know of any way to reduce that glow, other than to disable IR, which of course would limit your ability to see in low light.

You could do that for much less with the DVRs you already have. All you need is some multiplexers and splitters. Would be cheaper than new pcs.

I very likely will damage both devices if the full 2A is actually drawn. If your device is rated for 12V 2A, then it will consume 24W DC. If your power source is unfused and is rated for 12W DC (12V x 1A), then the voltage will sag due to the lack of power, which will in turn require more amps to keep the total watts needed by the device. These extra amps are what will burn up your wire if it isnt rated for the extra amperage.

I will take some and post them soon.

What if you need to make changes? Then you need to access outside where the camera is, then possibly also the inside too? What if the inside is very hard to get to?

That image only shows one Composite input. You cannot use the BNC output from the DVR with the Component input of the HDTV. Just because the jack fits, doesn't mean it will work. You have to use the composite video input, which should be designated with a yellow jack. If the jack is red, green, blue, or white, you don't have the right one in use. As for the VGA to component cables being recommended, those won't work. Again, just because it fits doesn't mean it works. There are a rare few devices that output the correct signal to use that cable. Mostly ATI graphics cards for computers. Even then, you need a special adapter, not just a simple cable. That VGA to 3 RCA cable is intended for older CRT monitors.

Those prices look kind of high. Those are retail prices I hope. Do they have a wholesale price level for installers?

Yes. The box is there for many reasons. 1) waterproof the connections 2) smaller hole for cable pass through. Connectors never pass through the hole. Cables are terminated after cable is pulled through. 3) if using cat5 with baluns, easier if they are outside with the camera. Don't have to service inside and out. Just have to access outside. 4) if your camera has a 5way switch built into the wire for the OSD, you will want that outside. 5) if you put a bnc t inline for your handheld monitor, you want that safe from weather too. 6) if you ever have to replace the camera, easier to remove from faceplate than wall surface. If new camera is different size, simply swap out faceplate for a fresh mounting surface. Might be more good reasons too, but not remembering them at the moment.

You have any photos of your handiwork? I would like to see how that is done without having any exposed wires. You can email it or put it on the forum

Or you can simply plug all of the power plugs into a single power strip. If they share a common ground, you won't have that issue. If they are too far apart, then you need the ground loop isolator. It will remove the grounding from the video cable.

This is the one I was thinking of: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=339&&css=0&&id=8 Not sure how an IP dome is relevant? My concern is a mounting box. All we do is cctv stuff anyways.

We usually use a 2 gang outdoor box. We drill a hole in the faceplate and run the cables through it. We make the termination inside the box. We use self tappers to mount the camera to the faceplate. We use tapcons to mount the box to masonary surfaces or self tappers to steel. We use the hole in the back to pass the cables from the building to the inside of the box. You won't see any exposed wires. Make sure to fill the hole leading out the back of the box with silicone. Still looking for a better mousetrap though. A hinged door to replace the faceplate would be great. Also a 2 gang box isn't quite large enough for the bigger domes. You have to screw the faceplate on before mounting the dome, because the dome base covers the faceplate screws.

It can be if they are very high locations where renting a lift is not cost effective and having two hands is the limiting factor on a high ladder. We just did an install where some of the cameras were as high as 45ft above the ground. If we need to service those in the future, you surely don't want to make it any more difficult than necessary.

Looking for advice from experienced installers on what type of junction box (or whatever you use) to use to mount outdoor cameras. We have been using standard 2 gang outdoor boxes from the hardware store, but it would be nice to have a cover that is hinged instead of 4 screws to remove. The hinged door would make it easier during install to mount, aim, and focus the cams. We currently use a handheld monitor to view the camera image. We were thinking that a BNC T with a dongle hanging out the bottom of the box would make future adjustments much easier. It just seems strange that none of the manufacturers have come up with an easy to install outdoor box that has a video out port, hinged door, 1/4 turn screws, and be roughly 5inx5inx2in deep. It could be painted steel or plastic. I can't find anything close to this idea for less than $80. That is too expensive to justify.

Have used them plenty. They are not that bad, but somewhat overpriced for the feature set. I switched over to the QVIS line and have seen the same quality, better features, and all at a much lower cost. www.qvissecurity.com