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jazzar

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Posts posted by jazzar


  1. I would think that you would be aswell just upgrading the whole system rather than messing about looks like an average recording unit.

    The unit may not support the HD cameras - probably have standard cameras hooked up at present -and so the unit may need to be upgraded along with the cameras- effectively a new system.

    Unless you just want to play with it to see what you can do regarding forwarding the streams etc.


  2. well done in solving your problem- at times it can be a real pain.

    You can buy real cheap testers that just verify pin to pin connectivity with leds, about £5 from ebay c/w punch down tool and some with cable oscillators for a bit more fault tracing/cable identification.. Simply plug the rj45 dongle on your cable end and the tester on the other and the lights indicate if you have connection and if the pairs are crossed or broken- saved me a lot of time in the past.

    Also much more proper certification units etc which do the full monty tests across all pairs etc- but pretty expensive.

    You learn more from failing than when everything works straight away- look at what you have learned from simply posting your issue.


  3. Ideal if you can separate the cable runs from all the other mains voltages.

    Ideal if you can suppress all the electrical noise at the motors sources- is there any suppression devices- is the mains regulated -if so are they working ?

    As indicated by others fibre being glass + light is immune to electromagnetic noise- but you need a specialist to fit it.

    Ideal is a Bit difficult in your situation.

    Using twisted pair cable works on the principle of the difference between the A wire and the B wires being processed and since these would normally pick up an equal amount of noise- when the control point then compares the difference you should be left with just the camera signal since the noise being even on wire A and wire B should cancel itself out.

    To try twisted pair you need to use a pair of baluns for each camera (a tx unit and a rx unit) which take the bnc connector at one side and drive/receive twisted pair on the other side. If you use shielded twisted pair you should only tie 1 end to a common ground to stop earth loops -if you tie both ends to earth you could get an earth loop- not sure about earthing on a boat- but this is best practice on land.

    You could try this on the worst one and see how you go- cheaper than fibre and more serviceable for onboard techs.

    I don't envy you on this one- sounds like a real stinker.

    If all else fails -Buy a new boat with the cctv working-- he ho.


  4. the CCTV vehicles I have had involvement with usually run off mains a generator system thus allowing use of all mains equipment.

    Using the mains generator will mean you don't flatten your vehicle battery if you are on day long duties / events.

    for added height they employ pneumatic telescopic poles which extend out of the roof of the van via fold up/down roof section at rear of vehicle, you could fit a double or triple mount to each pole, 2 poles would give you 2,4 or 6 PTZ'S-

    small factor cameras with good performance like Predator cameras or Bosch metal mickey style allow 360 continuous rotation, various models thermal etc. Any vandal dome style cameras bolted onto the sides/rear of vehicle should suffice for viewing perimeter of vehicle if safety is of concern directly around the vehicle.

    fit dvr/nvr of your choice along with control gear and job done, would fit a suitable rated UPS or similar to protect kit from any surges etc from the Generator- added protection to your expensive electronic gear- A MUST in my opinion.

    Fitting out of mains supplies / circuit breakers etc should be done by a qualified electrician.

    Fit a 19" rack type rail system - most CCTV kit is available as rack mount = neat and tidy.

    Fitting of desk layout if you want it to look real nice - use professional people to level of shopfitters etc.

    you want easy access removable panels etc to access the rear of the units for connections etc.

    And if you are doing a long stint in the vehicle a comfy seat - with easy to remove option- so you can access kit without being hindered by a bulky seat.

    This layout is not cheap and is NOT the only way to do such a project- take from it what you will- you could scale back to suit your budget- or do it in stages over a period of time. Look forward to the photos of the completed project. Good luck.


  5. could be a broken data wire or similar or the electronic head inside the dome at the top.

    can you try swapping unit with a working one if you have more than 1 on your system.

    there will be a series of switches that can be set to on or off- these need to be swapped around if you try swapping units since these switches assign the camera address ie unit 1 or unit 2 etc.


  6. you don't connect to the ip camera, you connect to the bracket which has the drive motor - the bracket motor is controlled via Pelco-d data, You just fit the IP camera onto the bracket and I would ensure you use a highly flexible cat5 cable for this - since solid core will probably break by constant movement. you need some kind of pelco-d controller or software.


  7. you need to measure the voltage at the camera while its doing its testing etc to see if the voltage drops below 5v.

    if its low you could buy a small 5v regulator component which you can input 6 to 12v to it and it gives out a steady 5v, then you could use a 12v power unit and if you drop a couple of volts across the cable at the far end you still have 10v available to the input of the regulator which would still be enough for it to output a steady 5v. just google 5v regulator component usualy has 3 legs, midlle leg is common 0v for in and out, then 1 leg =in volts and 1 leg = out 5v.


  8. ref tommcctv comment- do you know of a suitable unit to provide poe/Ip tester as well as the fibre and coax - effectively looking for a 1 item tester instead of multiple units albeit if goes faulty on the main board then all your eggs are in 1 basket. I had the orange st895 or similar which did well but lacks poe for the ip cameras which is a pain resorting to linking up batteries etc-

    Ref Numb-nuts- no I hadn't tried them - will give them a go - ps enjoyed your string a duct video you posted.

    Regards jazzar.


  9. is the 500ma the original fuse size on the 240v side of the psu ? if so then you probably have a faulty unit- maybe a short in the transformer winding on the mains side. With nothing connected on the low voltage side (camera side) you should be able to power up the unit without blowing the fuse.


  10. one of the top considerations MUST be the quality of tech support- some kit from china- you get none- upgrading firmware goes wrong and your dvr is bricked- not a good result if your in a customers premises and this happens ! what are you going to do - buy your customer a new unit ? take the hit- how many times before your out of pocket big time.

    If you want to spend an hour on the phone to sort a tech issue with setting up remote viewing etc- it must come at a cost to the manufacturers/suppliers so I would beware of the cheapest kit for this reason- fine if its cheap AND RELIABLE AND you get the tech support. That's a lot to ask of a cheap price tech product, not saying that all units from China are of this nature but some are. All my own opinion - everyone can make up their own mind.


  11. try googling 25mm compression gland- with ip66 or ip67 waterproof rating, if the cable harness is bigger go for 32mm,

    you can also use "self amalgamating tape" to wrap around the cable and cable gland if you feel the cables aren't grippied properly and are loose- this is a rubber type tape which over time will just become 1 large rubber blob- again waterproof. if using the tape it would need to be cut away to access the cables -then new tape reapplied.


  12. you chop the cable at every junction and drop 1 fibre off to the camera and splice the rest straight through to the next camera point.

    so cam1 has 1 drop off and 11 spliced straight through, cam2 has 1 dropped off and 10 spliced straight through, cam3 has 1 dropped off and 9 spliced straight through etc.


  13. any uk sellers- of the item, I don't mean amazon which then gets the item from China or ebay - I mean a uk supplier that if item goes faulty it will be dealt with locally from the uk ie warranty etc.

    If So please provide details via pm if you prefer- I have been in touch with a uk supplier but they wont have this item for a few more months yet.

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