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Billy_ICU

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Posts posted by Billy_ICU

  2. Posted

    The alarms on DVRs like that are for a security guard watching a bank of monitors 8 hours a day. Something happens and it draws the guard's attention to a particular monitor.

     

    For an inside burglar alarm, you are best to install a burglar alarm [security] system.

     

    For video systems, motion detection alarms can be used to determine what is recorded - record prior to, during, and after the alarms and not keep other recordings (saves disk space). Also to activate the recording of other cameras. Send emails, whatever. So it can do "automatic stuff" and also "alert someone stuff". But you don't want to be alerted each time that cat walks back and forth!

  5. Posted

    Oh My! I didn't know all those bugs and spiders I've been seeing on my cameras were actually GHOSTS!

     

    And on my cameras, I can clearly see them at least.

     

    Anyway a broom will get rid of the long thin "ghosts" (spider webs) and bug spray will keep the slowly crawling ghosts away for awhile...

  6. Posted

    Try a different TV. Borrow an old fashioned TV from someone. Or you can get old TV's at 2nd hand stores for $10 to $25. Be sure it has an RCA connection on the back for VCR or whatever. If same problem, then the problem is with the DVR. Also maybe you could take the borrowed TV upstairs and try a BNC to BNC and RCA adapter cable just to be sure it is not a cable problem.

     

    They make a BNC to RCA adapter, so yes you can go from BNC to RCA. I've done it many times and all has worked fine.

     

    And beware of new TV's which have a component (3 wire) video connection AND a regular 1 wire video connection on the same input. And it automatically senses which to use - don't have anything plugged into the component plugs if using the regular video connection.

  8. Posted

    I've had some cameras which are viewing nothing moving, yet trigger the motion alarm. Some of these were older non-Swann cameras. And all cameras trigger the motion alarm at night if set at the same sensitivity as day.

     

    So for the night hours, I totally turn down the sensitivity. Day more sensitive. Older cameras may have the motion alarm totally turned off. Higher quality cameras have an OSD or On Screen Display and also may give you the option to reduce the "noise". Noise looks like snow.

     

    Note if you are wanting an alarm system, get "dual technology" passive infra red / microwave motion detectors connected to an alarm system. No false alarms! Here is a bit on those...

     

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motion_detector#Dual-technology_motion_detectors

  11. Posted

    Just pretend your eyes are the camera inside and a regular outside flood light is lighting up the outside.

     

    The outside light would not need to be on during the day for you to see. You could set it on a timer or sensor to turn on only at night.

     

    Then inside if there were lights on, you would not be able to see outside due to the reflection in the glass from the lights inside. So best to turn off the inside lights so you could see outside. Note night vision cameras come with their own IR lights which automatically switch on when it gets dark. If the camera was inside, that would be the same as you turning on a light inside, then trying to look outside!

     

    As for Foscam, I see they have *many* different models. I suggest you call the manufacturer and ask what would work best.

  12. Posted

    Search google.com for the words...

     

    door annunciator

     

    Note there are "home automation" gizmos, which when they receive a signal a door has opened, can then "do something". Like then send a signal to an interior chime and also send a signal to an outdoor chime.

     

    Or less expensive might be to buy two door annunciators - one sounds a signal inside, the other outside.

     

    A simple magnetic contact, power supply or battery, and a buzzer could continually make a sound outside until the gate is closed. Ask at an electronics store like Radio Shack in the U.S. Or search for "alarm magnetic contact". You would need to get the type which makes electrical contact when the door opens. (Most do the opposite - some have 3 connections and do both.)

  14. Posted

    Well that eliminates settings on the camera, problems with wiring.

     

    One more thing to try is to use the power supply from another camera and also connect to that camera's connection to the DVR.

     

    (Could be bad power supply or bad connection(s) on DVR.)

     

    Basically connect good working camera. Then connect the new camera to the same power and connection. If bad, then a bad camera.

     

    (Also you can move a known good working camera to the new wiring/camera location - connections. See it if works OK there.)

  15. Posted

    Did you connect the cameras to a TV prior to installing?

     

    Can you do that now (remove camera and connect directly to a TV)?

     

    Also is there a PAL / NTSC setting in the camera OSD?

     

    Read the troubleshooting suggestions in the instruction manual which came with the cameras?

  16. Posted

    Metal CCTV lock boxes have louvers for air flow in the front and a fan in the back.

     

    Here is one - difficult to see the louvers, but they are there.

    http://www.cableorganizer.com/p/quest-vcr-dvr-security-lock-box-cabinet/

     

    Then rooms in a house which need air - like a natural gas water heater room - will have vents at the floor and ceiling. Like this...

     

    http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Combustion_Air1c.jpg

  20. Posted

    In my experience, soldered connections are the best over a long period of time. (15 years down the road, the connections will still be good.)

     

    The WORST connections are wires hand twisted together and nothing used to crimp or hold them together. These will quickly fail - become a high resistance or intermittent connection. (As a rule for servicemen tracking these down, they will be located in the most difficult to get to location!)

  21. Posted

    If you could run power to each camera and that power was near each camera, then it would free up 2 wires - which you could then use for the OSD.

     

    Note to anyone else reading this thread... I just bought a used 642 camera - it has a black thumb screw on it instead of the Allen screws for adjusting aiming. Anyway, that camera/joystick has a separate wire going to each position of the joystick. So 6 wires needed to connect that older version camera! (No resistors used.)

  22. Posted

    In the U.S. we would search for a relay based on its activation voltage - in this case 12 volts or 12VDC. And next by the number of switch contacts - SP = Single Pole, DP = Double Pole. And by if it is just making / breaking one connection or two. ST = Single Throw, DT = Double Throw.

     

    So you could search for: 12VDC DPDT Relay

     

    Then look at the contact amperage and voltage ratings.

     

    Also in the U.S., relays are typically to be mounted on a printed circuit board, the same thing called a solenoid is used for automotive, and relays designed to be mounted in an electrical wiring box for building wiring are called "contactors"!

     

    So perhaps: 12VDC DPDT Contactor

     

    Or: 12VDC DPST Contactor

     

    Of course Europe and the UK probably have different names for all this???

     

    Also check in a home automation store for gizmos which are designed to turn on/off lights in a home. Wall plug-in modules and replacement wall switches. That might be a better and safer way to go - they may have some sort of controller which will accept a relay connection. Names for this stuff in in U.S. are X10 (old), INSTEON, Z-Wave, Home Automation.)

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