marzsit

cosmicar lenses have filter threads.

some computar lenses (mostly motorized zoom/focus) have filter threads.

i have played around with using 35mm slr camera lenses (specifically m42/pentax mount) on cctv cameras using a c-mount adapter. for the most part it works, but because the image sensor in a cctv camera is much smaller than a frame of 35mm film, the field-of-view is reduced substantially.. a 135mm portrait lens becomes a telescope when used on a cctv camera. sometimes this can be a good thing, especially if you need a very long-range lens.

we run all of our own conduit, but we know how to cut and bend it properly so it's not much of a problem really..

 

I see it has connections for pots, which I presume are potentiometers. If I can give the lens it's 12v DC voltage, and then connect 2 pots 2 move the zoom and focus back and forwards, then that would be great. But not sure if it's that simple, and even less sure where to make the connections.

This is a specification sheet for the lens which shows a little more info than the jpg attached

the pot connections are for position feedback, useless for your purposes.. the motors are controlled by 2 wires each, polarity reverses movement. i have a similar lens (computar 5-75mm) and a 9-volt battery seems to work just fine for running it's motors in and out.

the iris appears to be dc on your lens, hopefully your camera will accomodate that.. the iris must be connected (correctly..) or you won't get any light through the lens.

i figured it out, it is 12vdc. it's also black & white and very grainy... i suspect it's one of the first generation board cams.

if you use a multi-camera supply, make sure it has individually-fused outputs.. experienced thieves sometimes will intentionally short out cameras in the hopes of bringing all of the cameras on a single supply down.

has anybody ever come across an open circuit board-type camera that didn't operate on 12vdc? i have an unknown board camera that an engineer gave me to play with, but no documentation.. i don't even know if it's color or b/w. it has no connectors soldered to it, just 3 wires (red, black, brown) i'm assuming the video signal ground is combined with the electrical ground on the black wire, red is power, brown is video signal.

why is it important to see inside the trailer? is the missing merchandise pocket-sized stuff??

aluminum or stainless fasteners only.

AMAZING! The devil is in the details! A good site survey always saves my behind in the long run. There is nothing worse than a missed detail that grows in to a total disaster! Thank you all for your advice!

 

Question? If the elevator company is to run wire can it be siamese? I do not have a problem with CAT, just asking. I figure the wire has to be plenum rated, and this would dictate CAT over siamese.

 

Thanks,

Scorpion

whatever cable you choose, it will have to withstand a lot of flexing over the years... which will rule out solid conductors like cat5 or coax with a solid center conductor. it would be no fun at all locating a break in a very long cable deep within the elevator shaft...

the elevator cab already has at least 120vac power for the interior lights, i would power the camera locally which eliminates the need for siamese cable.

I can find the coax and siamese (sp?) all over the place. But the hard stuff for me to find for some reason is the ptz cable (2data/2power/1coax) and (4data/2power/1coax) stuff. Btw I am here in Seattle but soon will be moving to California

try westlake electronics in seattle, they have several styles of belden siamese cable. i think they also have a website..

aluminum won't corrode if you install it correctly, never mix dissimilar metals or create stray current paths... read up on "galvanic corrosion" for pointers.

Depends on the quality of the padlock.

 

I lost the keys to a cheap one, and cut through it in a few seconds with a little hacksaw.

 

Not tried a top-end one, but I assume bolt cutters would make a quick job of even those.

pocket-sized, cordless dremel tools with abrasive cutoff wheels are

available at any home depot and will cut through the largest padlock in about a minute.. and weigh a lot less than a pair of bolt cutters.

my understanding is that an ip camera uses more power than a typical video camera because of it's integrated cpu/web server, so i would say probably not enough power even on doubled or tripled-up 24awg pairs.

discharging the crt isn't that difficult to do, basically you short the metal frame on the front of the crt tube to the aquadag connection on the side of the tube under what normally looks like a rubber suction cup. a jumper lead with 2 alligator clips and a thin screwdriver that slides under the rubber cup to touch the dag connection is all that is needed.

Take "telescope" add board type camera

and you can read licence plate from far away

 

I was able to read from about 800 meters

without any problem

c-mount adapters for 35mm photo lenses are readily available, as are 1000mm mto and rubinar telephoto mirror lenses (russian made) the combo works very well for long-distance work for not too much $$

i'm wondering about this unit:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2475943&Sku=Q300-2258&SRCCODE=PWATCH&CMP=OTC-PWATCH

it looks like it could work for what i need, has anybody ever heard of q-see before? does it look like it could be worth the $70 risk?

My wire sales rep told me that there was no need for the 18/2 - that when he was in the business he used only the cat5 for all three functions, only doubling up for power. I told him I had to go 700 feet and he said 'no problem'. Guess what - there is a problem!

the salesman probably assumed that you were running power to simple cameras without ptz positioning motors.. or, he personally had never done a long-distance install using cat-5 for all 3 functions.

There is no power available to remote mount the power supply. I really dont want to trench and rebury another 3500 feet of cable (5 runs). I have now thought of bumping up the output so that it is 24VAC at the camera but cant find a power supply to do this. My preliminary calcs show I need +/- 40 volts at the supply. SOMEBODY CORRECT ME IF THIS IS WRONG.

hate to say this, but you're screwed.. bumping the primary voltage won't work with a long-distance ptz because in order to have high enough voltage to correctly operate the ptz motors, the camera will most likely operate with too high of a voltage when the motors are idle.

Hmmm I might be able to develope this for you.

 

 

Any possiblity of error info from the machines? Digital IO just an LED from the control, if advanced enough TCP packets?

 

 

Basically just trip the DVR and it will back up the framebuffer say 30 or 60 seconds. This way rather then questionable motion detection you can just let it capture every error the control detects.

what i've been doing is having the dvr record in continuous overlap with motion detection on. when the machine stops, so does the recording. i thought about tapping into one of the light sockets on the machine's christmas tree for error output, but some machines are 24vdc, others are 120vac and the system has to be portable, not permanently installed. i have the camera (panasonic wv-cp230 color box camera, various lenses depending on the situation) mounted on a cheap targus tripod, the laptop hangs in it's bag below the camera and both the laptop and camera operate on 120vac via an extension cord.

another annoying problem is that the novex software doesn't generate standard video files.. something that would generate .avi or .mpg files would be outstanding and much easier to email video files to production engineers..

is there such a thing on the market as a single-channel dvr device, usb connected, that captures at a high resolution and frame rate with motion detection, adjustable frame rates, etc. ? i'm talking decent quality, not garbage grade... i have seen usb video grabbers at the computer shops, but none of them have motion detection capability as far as i can tell..

here's the situation: on occasion i need to set up a temporary camera/dvr setup to watch a piece of production equipment (cnc lathe/mill, waterjet cutter, punch press etc..) for faults during a run when a technician can't spend all night standing around waiting for a machine to fault out. i've been using an ancient novex "video catcher" which connects to the printer port of my laptop computer, but at best it can only capture 2 fps at 240x320(?) which misses a lot on fast-moving equipment. i tried using a typical usb-connected webcam, the frame rate is much better but the resolution is terrible..

Ive used a popular low res OEM Color bullet for a few years now, OEM'ed by Eclipse CCTV in my case. You may have seen some images from it here before, they dont last long though, maybe 1 year with decent image, another year until they die. Others also OEM the same camera.

Rory

is this because the bullet design forces the ccd to run hot?

not all rg6 is aluminum, sometimes it can be copper but i doubt any of the home depot/lowes stuff is...

rory.

 

Probably my mis-interpretation of a box camera. The loaner I am using is a Swann C-500R, looks like a "box" camera with C/CS lens mount and plenty of adjustments on the back, including auto iris connector etc. Is this the correct interpretation of a box camera?

 

Here are the specs:

 

1/4" Sharp CCD

PAL: 512(H) x 582(V)

NTSC: 512(H) x 492(V)

400TV line

Backlight Compensation On/Off

1.5 Lux/F1.2

3.5 - 8mm Manual Vari Focal Lens

 

So my question is can I use the lens on a 1/3" CCD box camera (eg. the SUNKWANG SK2154AIP/SO) and if I bought a wide angle lens for it, could I use that on a 1/3" CCD box camera?

 

Thanks for the help.

yes, you can. the larger sensor will also increase the field-of-view so you might not need a wider angle lens than you already have.

I disconected the hub [which allows multiple units to hook up to your dsl router connection for remote viewing] and the other unit and ran only the one dvr. I got a little better performance but not much. I am wondering if the specific model or brand of router/modem can dramatically increase your performance in a situation where your upload speeds from the remote site are at max 900 kbps ? I currently use an actionteck router/modem on a qwest dsl line. And can you use any router/modem you like if the qwest dsl can with the actionteck router/modem?

dsl in the seattle area is very slow on uploads, you're probably limited to 256kbps like i am, and that's when the network is operating at minimum capacity... during peak hours my upload speeds usually drop down to 180kbps and sometimes lower..

if this system is for personal use you might consider searching for a good, used geovision or other quality card off ebay. i'm talking a used genuine card, not a cheap knock-off.. of course there will be no warranty, which is why this route isn't recommended if it's for a commercial job but if it's for a home system and the risk is reasonable, why not? it's better than getting stuck with a system that doesn't do what you expect..