Joeinamillion

Anyone know if this is a rebranded NVR? http://www.q-see.com/recorders/16-channel-real-time-1080p-resolution-nvr-16-poe-ports-qc8116-3 It has some impressive key features I like, such as: 16 channels 16 PoE IP Ports up to 4 HDs (4TB max. each, 16TB max. total) 30fps/channel 1080p recording up to 5mp camera support (8fps) After noticing that NVR I looked at HikVision and found the DS-7716NI-SP with nearly identical everything. so.... Any one know if $1070CAD (No HD, Free shipping, no import) is an ok price for this HikVision DS-7716NI-SP? Also any other (respectable) place I might find one to buy. Also which of those two NVR seems better? The HikVision seems both cheaper and easier for me to source right now. I also like the PC route for the options with software and hardware. After discovering the two NVRs above IDK. I'd hate to buy a NVR and then use a PC instead.

Some one here will buy one I'm sure, then we'll all know. On another forum this AE vendor was recommended, http://www.aliexpress.com/store/202753. He is selling the DS-2cd2032F-I. I've never used AE. But for the price, and size, and SD slot, and the popularity of the 2032 (because of the price, I bet), I might get one from AE. I don't even know where I'd want to put that, I was going to go with all domes for my setup. The domes I want all cost about twice what the 2032(F) does. It's odd that the 1.3mp version seems to currently cost more than the 3mp. maybe 1.3mp are going the way of the dino?

The nice thing about bullet style cameras is that they can be installed in almost any location. wall, ceilings. some Domes can be installed both wall or ceiling, but not all, some are only wall, and some only ceiling (so make sure). Out side domes are best mounted ceiling (under mount) so the dome doesn't get water marks over the camera lens (as much). These units say they can operate at -4F (-20C) and 140F (60C), so they should be fine. These are IP66 rated, in other words rain water should not harm the units. These bullets are sealed units, so no worries. The domes are not sealed units. The dome comes off the positioning the cameras. If the dome is not installed properly the camera may leak. Don't let this worry you, just make sure you put the dome on properly. Either way, don't go swimming with them . Don't power wash them, and don't hose them down.

Outdoor PTZ start at about $800. http://www.amazon.com/Hikvision-DS-2DE4220-AE-OUTDOOR-MINI-1080P/dp/B00QWZIEG4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1426044666&sr=8-5&keywords=hikvision+ptz Look here: http://www.networkcameracritic.com/ You will find useful reviews, and a link to a seller with currents real prices.

Welcome LordX, If you had bought either of the systems you had been looking at, you will have wanted to replace it as soon as you either realized how poor it was, or as soon as it began to fail. The Zmodo system you linked to had very poor mounting brackets for the cameras. Those type of brackets are flimsy and if you are not careful and gentle with them your camera might end up only facing straight down to the Earth or straight up into the sky (The first system I bought had those brackets.) Also the wires for those style brackets will be exposed, looking messy, and easy to cut. I've had three systems since 2008, each one was a learning experience. If I had done my research I would be going to my second system now, not my forth, and I would have saved a lot of $. I suggest time and patience in finding the right system, at the right price. The URL that Boogieman suggested has two systems that I think would be excellent for your desires. This one : http://www.costco.com/Lorex-8-Channel-HD-NVR-Security-System-with-2TB-HDD-and-6-1080p-Cameras.product.100153162.html, and the Q-See one for the same price. Cost Co. let's you take back what you don't like, but buying from someplace else is fine too. Newegg likely will have Lorax, Q-See and Swann systems too, if you're more comfortable with them. Seeing as you've already learned that a WD Purple hard drive is what belongs in a DVR/NVR, you're on the right track. Look, read and ask in the forum and you'll learn what you will be happiest with when you buy.

I've been giving some thought to this camera model [DS-2CD2032F-I(W)]. After reading the other thread it was mentioned in http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=44800 and looking at the Hikvision Web page for this model http://www1.hikvision.com/cn/prgs_186_i6879.html I noticed this camera comes in wireless too. I'm guessing maybe this design was made for a customer? This looks like a simple enough change to make for a customer willing to order enough units. I think that would explain the incomplete, Chinese only web page. Also the big cylinder on the cameras pigtail, and the easy access to the sd card.

Posting images of the camera views at night would be very helpful for people here to give suggestions.

I thought maybe you got a box without one, and then ended up with a useless support rep too. When I found that quick start guide I was surprised that was all there was for download. I guess Swann aimed that system to a demographic that wouldn't read a real manual? (Or maybe they have what I call "IBM arrogance" - I learned a lot about that when I used OS/2 [iBM made lots of hardware and software, then never documented how to use any of it].) This falls under "subject to change without notice". This might fall under "it's the thought that counts" meaning "we thought we'd get around to it". It might be on the site some place... an URL "easter egg". Both Swann and Q-See brand systems seem to have poor documentation, poor support, features that are buggy. Luckily for me my computers give a pop-up telling me it must be run with administrator privileges, and an ok/cancel option. But I have had what you've mentioned too. And looking for it in the "Task Manager" is really frustrating, if it's there 5 times or not at all... or if it shows up and then goes away. I had a pretty good idea you know enough about what you where talking about from your very first post in the thread, I could sense your frustration too. You might want to keep a record of what you do to get this system working so if you have to do it again you don't have to try to recall what you did. <- that is advice I give to you, but never use myself. I collect frustration, my comb collects my hair. A lot of retail box branded CCTV systems get similar reviews as what you've said above. I have three wired analogue Q-See systems (all soon to be retired), each one had it's strange Quirk-See-ness about it. I also am surprised that I have not found a forum like this one but solely dedicated too retail, DYI, homeuse, etc CCTV. I've been looking (not hard mind you) since I bought my first system in 2008. Swann equipment is mostly rebranded. The NVR might be something Swann designed themselves, but the cameras are likely rebranded. I don't have any experience with wireless cams, but i've read someplace of this forum if you google search the cameras MAC address you should find out who the OEM is, and that might give you real documentation. I guess the NVR is a receiver and has a MAC address too. I've never had any reason to learn about MAC addresses, as I'm sure you can tell. And that picture I made for turning your camera and setting the mask, I kinda knew you knew what was being said, but that question gets asked about every two or three weeks. Hopefully that image will help others understand how to correct the IR issue, and moving objects. I hope you get it all worked out. Keep looking around here, your answers might be in some other thread. Oh, and something that should be packed in every box of electrical equipment is patience, but it's not.

Here is a URL to the manufactures site and the page for your equipment: http://www.swann.com/au/swnva-460ah2# on that page click on "Product Downloads" (last Tab on the right), click to download the "460 Micro NVR Wizard Quick Start Guide". It's a PDF. I suggest downloading and printing all of these, and keeping them in a safe place, for future reference (eg. under the NVR). Move the camera FoV away from the wall (as said by some one in a prior post, you don't need to see the wall), then with the information in the image below you should be able to setup your camera to not record the moving bush. Here is a image capture of page 14 of the quick start guide for your NVR. I took this from the this URL : Here is an idea of how your FoV should like with the camera adjusted and where the "motion detection area" should be. As a tip, watch the live view to see how much the bush moves and set the " motion detection area" a little out side of that. You may need to adjust the area if you do this on a calm day. If you use the window pane (i hope that's the correct spelling) as I did for you "motion detection area", you should be fine.

Your system should have settings so to set areas in the FOV to record movement only the areas you wish. So, turn the camera away from the wall, then set the area to only detect motion to in the area you want.

It is easy access, but I wonder about moisture getting in there, if the door doesn't have a gasket of some sort.

I know good PoE switches have been mentioned on this forum before, but I couldn't find those posts with a search. I want a quality PoE. I am only starting out with one camera, but will add more sooner or later. I want something that can power them all, so a 4 or 8 PoE switch that can put out enough power per PoE port. The camera I will be starting with has a max power consumption of 7W, so there should be no problems. I doubt any camera I add later would be more than that, I would like to keep my options open. So Brand names and models would be great... ones to consider, and ones to stay away from. If anyone is interested in knowing... I finally picked a camera to start with (HikVision DS-2CD2732F-I), and I found a place that sells them at a reasonable price, that I feel I can trust, and I don't need to worry about currency conversion, import changes, or shipping fees. I had the problem of good brand, good price, trustworthy, etc.... pick any two.

Thanks. I suspect this model is still very new and very Chinese only. Even the HikVision site appears to still be incomplete.

I didn't find this camera by searching the HikVision site though. I would like to see the Data Sheet on this. The image below was taken from and aliexpress ad.

There are pros and cons to pretty much any set up. An Out of the box, from Cost Co system offers you everything you should need to get up and running. It offers you simplicity in that everything in the box is made to work together. In the box should be a 'set-up guide', and/or a 'quick-set up guide', these guides and pretty much exclusive to 'in a box' systems. It's all in a box, with a clear price tag, there shouldn't be any extras costs for most DYI installs, so you know what your spending. It's all together so set up, getting help and support should be easy. Buying from Cost Co offers you Cost Co's return policy. The downside is this a kind of 'one size' fits all solution, it won't be tailored. The features will be limited, and future expansion may be limited, or require adding another system. Also if the 'in a box' system comes with 8 cameras and you only need 7, you have paid for a camera you don't need. These style systems are good for small setup only. A Build it your self system means you can pick each component best suited for your needs. You will need to pick each camera out (there are thousands), the cable lengths, NVR, Power source, etc. With a system like this you need to do your research. There are so many choices. The price is a bit trickier to figure out too; cables cost money, and they do not come with most cameras. You can go way overboard and buy stuff you don't need too. Also going this route means you'll need to learn to use each camera, and NVR or software. Support may be limited, and there may not be any at all. You also need to trust who you buy from; make sure what you pay for is what you get. Warranties, returns and such can be difficult, or impossible. This type of system may take time to learn, and is for someone willing to take time to learn. There may be some trial and error also, and sometimes that is frustrating, time consuming, and costly. In other words, it can become a bit of a hobby. This type of system is good for small setups, and can be used for larger setups, but larger set-ups can become very complex. A Pro Installed system means you should have a system that suits your needs, works as you want, and is neat and tidy. Also, if something goes wrong, the installer should be able to return and correct the problem. A good installer should guild you through what you really need, rather than you you think you need. A good installer should sell, install and support what they sell and install. Having a pro install can actually save you time, money, and headaches. A pro install will likely cost more on paper. Having a pro install the system should mean it can be as small or as large as needed.

The IR LEDs are reflecting off the wall. The camera needs to either be turned out further from the wall, or the camera housing needs to be mounted further from the wall [an electrical box might work].

Because there are so many different brands, each with their own way of mounting, if you can give make and model numbers of the units, and/or photos some one will hopefully be able to give you tips.

You might find the below advise condescending, but it's not. I assure you not following any one of the tips below can lead to frustration. And I think about 90% (or more) of people out there forget or don't know at least one of these tips. Here are some basic tips for mounting almost anything to almost anything with screws: You will need: Screws, driver, mounting bracket, a mounting surface, patience. (an instruction manual is useful too) Make sure you pre-drill all holes for your screws. Mark where you will drill before you drill. Make sure every hole lines up with your mounting bracket before you drill. Make sure the screw holes are going to be the correct size (diameter and depth) for the screws. For diameter the box your screws came in may state a bit size. You could also use a hole guide (these often look like a flat sheet of metal with different size holes in it). Find the smallest hole in the guide the screw will not slip through and will thread (twist) through turning it with your fingers. The corresponding bit size should be written by that hole. If you don't have either of those, hold a drill bit over your screw, you should be able to clearly see the threads on both sides of the bit (if not the bit is too big). For depth you can hold the screw next to the drill bit, line the tip of the screw to the tip of the bit. If your drill has a depth guide, use it. If your drill has no depth guide you can use a marker and mark on the drill bit where the screw threads end, or use a small piece of masking tape wrapped around the bit. Stop drilling when the mark on the bit is flush with the wall. Make sure to the drill holes as straight as possible. [Note: if you need to use wall plugs, do the same as above, just measure for the size of the plugs. Tap the plugs snugly, and fully into the holes. Don't mash the plugs. Once this is done you are ready for screws.] Mistakes people commonly make with screws is not using the correct driver. Just because the driver can turn (drive) the screw doesn't mean it's the correct one. The correct driver will fit snugly into the head of the screw. It will not wiggle clockwise or counter clockwise, not even a little ways. [Note: The driver and screw should be in good shape, if either are damaged in anyway it will lead to problems.] Make sure the length of the shaft of the driver is long enough the fully clear the mounting bracket, and camera housing. You should be able to drive the screw at a 90 degree angle with the mounting surface. (Sometimes this is not possible due to a poor design of the mounting bracket, or camera housing). Before you start driving the screw into the surface make sure the driver is fully and properly seated into the screw head. This makes a world of difference in how easy it is the drive the screw, and lessens chances of damaging the screw head. [side note: Robertson is not simply a 'square', it's a brand name and Phillips is not simply a 'star' shape, and Allen is not simply a 'hex'... but that is too off topic for this forum.] Did you mean 'stripped' in stead of "threaded"? My tips above should help avoid stripping. I don't know anything about "Camera Extension Rings", so I won't comment. Another important tip when tightening screws for almost anything; is to not fully tighten any of the screws fully, get them all in most the way first, but not sung. Then go around the circle, tightening one, then the one on the opposite side until they are all tight (just like you would a car tires lug nuts). Do not over tighten. One quarter turn past snug is good. I do not recommend using a power tool to tighten any of the screws. Power tools easily over tighten, strip, and damaged screw heads. Use only hand tools. If I've left anything out, see my first paragraph.

Here's part of a Canadian company's web propaganda: I 'x'ed out the price, if anyone is interested I'm sure they can fine current price. I can point them to the web site if they ask.

Don Stephens, I didn`t mean I wanted some one to make videos, just asking if anyone had seen any. And, yes, privately is the most likely place for such a video to be made (Such as the one you shared). It`s extremely good to hear you torture test what you sell, I would not have thought that. I agree for your company to make a video would not serve you well, however, for a manufacturer to do this might help in sales. The link I posted was only an example. that videos only purpose seems to be that a dome camera (Brand unknown) can take a beating. I also agree that if someone wants to defeat any camera, it can be done. In fact I can only think of one place where a camera would be installed where someone might try to bash it in... and that would be a high school, by a student, for fun. Thanks, this is much more like something that I find interesting and useful. The only thing better than a test is real life stories, like the one I shared about what some cameras go through. There must be videos, photos, or such. Ones of cameras surviving fires, heat, water, ice, high winds, hail, etc. the below photo is a great pic of how a camera can stand up. The glass dome is pretty scuffed up, but if it was cleaned, and the camera still works. That image I found on this forum posted by Sawbones in the More for the Installation Hall of Shame thread, page 10.

Coming up with the subject line wasn't easy, but anyway... I've scene lots of reviews for a lot of cameras, but they seem to review only features, and video quality. I'm interested in how cameras hold up to the elements. Living in Canada the temperature goes from -32C at night in the winter (and down to -43C windchill) (usually only once a year), to 36C in the summer during the day (43C with the humidex) (again, only a few times a year). I've only got cheap junk cameras right now, and they have worked through those temps, but the IR LEDs are not like new. I'm really interested in knowing how with cameras with moving parts do in the cold (Motorized vari-focal, PTZ). Where I used to work they installed an indoor Samsung (analogue) dome camera in a walk in freezer (20 feet by 50 feet by 8 feet). The freezer was set to -20C. The camera was on the ceiling right in front of the blower (I'm guessing a windchill of -60C, or just plain "minus YIKES!"). When the door was opened the top of the freezer would warm up to 21C. When the door closed, the blowers came on and right back down to YIKES! again. (In the summer when the door was opened the humidity created a thick fog, and the freezer would go up to whatever it was in the back room (35C+). With the beating this poor thing took I was surprised it lasted... right up until the roof leaked in a rain storm and the poor camera was drowned, about 20 months.

I have been considering buying either Hikvision or Dahua brand cameras, but re-branded versions might be easier to buy. (Found lots of people that bought 'Hikvision" and "Dahua" cameras that when they got the product it was NOT a real Hikvision or Dahua.) I'm not afraid to buy re-branded stuff, all my appliances are Kenmore. But I knew the OEM before I bought, and I looked at the real thing before. I also know a cheap Kenmore is junk, and the higher end is the better stuff. If I buy a S-qee, Lorax, or Swann re-brand, how can I tell the OEM brand and model #? Is the re-brand software/firmware etc interfaces as good/reliable as the OEM? Do re-brands have all the features enabled? Are re-brands more 'buggy'? And something I would never try unless I didn't have any use for the re-branded camera... could it be stripped of all re-branding software/firmware and the 'loaded' with OEM firmware/software?

I watched a new episode of the TV show CSI [s15 E18] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4145952/?ref_=ttep_ep18. **Possible mild spoiler alert below** if you want to watch the episode. In the above episode investigators use CCTV surveillance video to help get clues. The video clip they use captures two people talking in a greenhouse. Like many CCTV video there is no audio. The investigators use computer software and the plants leaf vibrations in the video to compile audio. I thought this sounds all very possible, but how realistic? What I found really surprised me! Not only is it possible, but the 'audio' they 'created' in the episode wasn't just Hollywood glitter. Here's a link to the article, with video and audio too http://newsoffice.mit.edu/2014/algorithm-recovers-speech-from-vibrations-0804 Now mind you everything mentioned in that above link was done in controlled environments with one goal in mind. But still. So, corn stalks have ears to listen, and leaves to tell!

If I am correct, motorized vari-focal and Zoom are not the same thing. But, could a motorized vari-focal be used as a 'limited' zoom? Or is motorized vari-focal generally only good for initial camera setup? Could using the vari-focal for more than setting the camera up cause the motor to fail after a while? Also to be clear I am not talking about a PTZ. So if the area was in the centre of the cameras frame, and a used the motorized vari-focal to get in as tight as possible would it not work like a stationary 'zoom' camera? I'm thinking of the usefulness of a motorized vari-focal lens for residential out door use. Also, is you know where your camera is going, what is needs to capture and never will move that camera, or use that for anything else is there any need/reason to pay the extra $$ is costs to get a manual vari-focal camera? In other words, if you know what lens you need [eg 2.7mm] is there and reason not to buy a fixed focal camera?

I noticed that too. and therefore so much more