Joeinamillion

After reading this thread: viewtopic.php?f=54&t=44546 I started looking into my options. Now have so many new questions. When I buy my Cat6 wire I plan to get 1000ft, and will have lots left over. I know it can be used for home network use, but what other uses? I've heard it can, with adapters, extend HDMI, VGA, USB. I've heard it can replace coax, and phone wire? Is any of this reasonable to do? Any other legit uses? I guess plain Cat6 is good enough for me, and I know I want solid wire. But then there is shielded, unshielded, FTP, STP, UTP, direct bury and so on. Are these terms sometimes the same thing just said differently? For residential runs (some wire outdoors, some indoors, through walls etc) what is best. I'd like to buy one 1000ft box. But should I consider two 500ft boxes and get two types? I am currently considering Monoprice brand from Amazon as suggested by people here (although they are not getting good shipping to Canada reviews right now, and I don't know if there will be an import fee). There is a Canadian seller, but their prices are much higher. Next, the connectors. The difference in prices is mind blowing (from 3.6ea cents to about $10ea). There are one piece, two pieces, punch down... ack! I was looking at these: http://www.amazon.ca/Shielded-Connectors-Stranded-Pieces-CNE43897/dp/B00J3HHDCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423340090&sr=8-1&keywords=CAT6+RJ45+shielded+connectors Are connectors with an outter metal shell better? Then I saw these, but they cost so much: http://www.amazon.ca/Platinum-Tools-Shielded-Connector-202022J/dp/B00CJWU8V8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1423340399&sr=8-6&keywords=CAT6+RJ45+shielded+connectors Some connectors say "use with strand or soild", and "use with Cat5e or Cat6" and some say "shielded for shielded Cat6", should I choose one that is not 'dual' use or doesn't it matter? Do I have to use a connector that says "for shielded" if I buy shielded cable? Next up the tools: Some connectors look like they might be for use with a certain type of RJ45 crimper, and there seems to be a lot of different styles of crimpers. I want a good crimper, and I figure whatever the extra cost is for a good crimper I would save in frustration, ruined connectors, and if I sell the tool later I'd get some of that cash back. Here are some I've looked at: http://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-RJ-45-Modular-Crimping-108139/dp/B009GUNHSW/ref=sr_1_4?m=A2LC44S2ULTA3L&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1423281432&sr=1-4&keywords=rj45++tool http://www.amazon.ca/TRENDnet-RJ-11-RJ-45-Crimp-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_6_XRFW?ie=UTF8&refRID=11X33K92WCXKY09DP4FA http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/datacomm/tools/telemaster_telephone_tool.php or http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/prodSelect.php?prodId=33-396&div=2&l1=tools&l2=crimpers&l3=33-396 And lastly... For neatness should I use a wall plate near the NVR, and patch cables from the wall to the NVR? or is a straight cable run to the NVR best? If I'm making my own cables I can change it later, right? Do you folks recommend boots on the cables, they don't cost much and do look pretty.

This is an old thread started in 2011. I doubt there is any real 'fix' to the problem the OP mentioned. Many older cheaper CCTV cameras had off colours. Playing around with the Hue settings (if the DVR had it) could sometimes offer and somewhat better overall colour tone. But basically if you have this issue it's likely one you just need to live with, or replace the cameras. My best way to know what colour is really what colour is simple: Get a colour wheel (Print one out on your computers colour printer). Then put the colour wheel in the cameras frame where you need to know the correct colours. Make sure you remember what colour was at the top when it was on camera. Now look at the colours as they appear in the video footage. For cameras outside this is best done at the same time of day (and same sunlight brightness) as the video footage was film that you need to match colours. You still have crazy colour footage, but at least if you need to know the real colours for something like a police report you will be able to know.

Would a hard drive have a longer life span in a DVR if it was of a larger capacity? If you needed only one day of recording and could get that with a 1TB hard drive, would a 4TB hard drive have a longer life? Or does this logic only really apply to an SSD? Again: would two 1TB hard drives likely last longer than a single 2TB? And this question is assuming a setup without RAID capabilities.

I don't see any reason to use SSDs for surveillance. Until SSD prices really drop HDDs are the way to go, unless you really, really, really need the best. I'm still not sure what is so great with SSDs. I have two (older ones). Neither gave me greased lightening speed improvement. One is a 60gig OCZ Vertex Plus SATA II. I installed Windows three times and three times after a few weeks the blue screen of death welcomed me. The drive now just sits, maybe one day I'll use it for something. The second I bought a few months later (A cheap 62gig ADATA) drive. It's never failed. Both of those SSDs only are slightly faster than the 320gig WD Scorpio drive that came with the laptop. I wonder what would be better (or easier) for data recovery, a failed HDD or SDD.

I visited CostCo.ca online. There I viewed the surveillance items they carried. Sam's Club was a failed venture by Wal-Mart in Canada. Maybe I am just a bit of a dinosaur that way, I like real estate locations for somethings. Can you return things to Amazon's distribution centre? I can walk from my house to it. I have been reading, posting, and learning. My expectations far exceed my needs, and it is for that reason I continue to try to find a balance. At this point I'm pretty sure I can pick cameras and a NVR today if I wanted. I do like to consider the little things. For example, I have bullet cameras right now, and spiders love spinning webs in front of the lens and sleeping under the sun shade; will a dome camera solve such an issue, or fit in the same place effectively? I laugh at that too, but I have seen worse. Working as a manager for a large company I've seen CCTV used totally wrong. Everything from a blurry still, photocopied, blown up, then FAXed to me. Often it would be of what was said to be a person; sometimes it would include a get away blob too! Most recently I got colour e-mail pics, taken on a mobile device of the CCTV screen. I'm sure I'll get an e-mailed picture sent one day followed by a second e-mail saying "oops, i sent the wrong photo, the first one was of my daughter in her school play."

I'm looking to replace an old 'out of the box, DYI' Q-See system. Here's what I am looking at right now: An 8 Channel NVR, with ability to handle larger hard drives (2 or more SATA, with sizes of 2+ TB for total of 4-16+TB total storage recording). And off site storage capabilities (cloud, or whatever). HDMI out and analog out (RCA, BNC, Coaxial, etc) or some way to have viewing possible on a tv set, not important, just nice. I'm currently looking at this package: AvertX 8 Channel HD NVR Security System with 3TB HDD and 4 IP Autofocus Dome Cameras from Costco.ca Here's why: The NVR has features I want (so it claims). The manual I briefly looked at, and will read completely, looks very promising. Looks easy to set up. The dome cameras have a footprint of 4.6" max, that means they will fit where bullet cameras are currently (exterior window casing, and garage door casing). The cameras are 3MP, more than I need (want). The cameras also have an SD card slot, I really like that. The dome cameras claim they have 'auto focus', that worries me a bit for two reasons (one, it not working properly, or breaking, and two I think I read in the manual you focus it from your PC, so how is that 'auto'?) I do like that in the manual it says these cameras can be streamed to a PC via software like VLC, sounds simple, and easy, and free (everyone likes free). I also have thought about adding two bullet cameras, same company, same features, except fixed focused, and not dome. I pick this set up for these reasons: Sold by Cost Co. (so I should be able to return it if I need to, even though I'd be likely buying on-line.) Cost Co. is in Canada, and so am I. I want a retailer I can walk through the door. NVR says any ONVIF compliant camera can be used with it. Cons: I've read same or better systems are out there for less $$$, and more flexibility for more upgrades, having said that I want a retailer near me. Never been inside a Cost Co. Any thoughts would be great. TIA

I think I know (see) what you are talking about Buellwinkle. I have a different type and brand of camera but get the same thing. I just thought is was digital artifacting (Often seen in darker scenes with poorly encoded DVDs). If what you mention is what I think it is, I too enjoy it, as I know the video hasn't frozen. I am curious though, does this 'flickering' affect the video file size compared to other 'non-flickering' brands? Does the I-frame interval affect video file size, or overall quality, if so how? What would be the advantages/disadvantages of setting the I-frame interval at different refresh rates? And lastly; does the video compression level at the camera, and/or at the NRV increase this effect at all? I still have not bought my new CCTV set-up (still slowly figuring out what I really, really want). I am leaning towards HikVision cameras and NVR. I have heard some people strongly dislike the Dahua brand (NVR mostly), and as such have not even looked at the brand at all. What areas would you say Dahua shines best (or really falls short)? And HikVisions best and worst areas?

I didn't see anything flashing? Did you watch this clip before posting (might only be in your live view)? Here are some thoughts though: The flag moving about; it's so close to the camera and maybe reflecting light into the lens causing the camera the adjust (flicker/flash) as the flag moves. Second maybe the garden accent light shining in the direction of the camera. if this is a solar LED light it may change it's light out put as the batteries drain causing the camera to flicker. And lastly (lest likely) the street lamp. If it pluses, flickers, fades, spikes, or does any of those weird things some of them do it can affect the camera. Most likely it's the flag moving. Get the flag away from the camera and out of the frame and see if that corrects the situation.

I'm just starting my research into the cameras I want for a CCTV system. I've picked the brand, HikVision, after reading this form and info I found elsewhere. The model I have questions about right now is the DS-2CD4324F-IZHS. It retails for about $260cnd at one online site I found. Is that a fair price? I want to stay with a Canadian [Ontario] retailer, and hope someone here can suggest one. Other questions: Specs from HikVision site give dimensions as 99.9 x 97.5 x 56.5 mm. is that for the base, or just the dome? Seems small if it's the whole base. I want to mount these on a space the has about 150mm (6 inches) overhang. Also it says 'Wall mount'. Can it be ceiling mounted [under mount]? I would like to ceiling mount two of these, and want to know if the camera can still be angled however I need. The specs also mention the camera lens, and lens mount (m12). If I get a unit with a 4mm lens, can I switch it out to a 12mm later? Are lenses sold separately. Is the cost of doing that worth while? Is it easy to change the lens? This is a 1.3MP camera with a max res of 1280x960, and a 720p res of 1280x720. When would I want to use (or not use) the 960? Typing this I think I figured it out. Is 1280x960 equal to 4:3 ratio and 1280x720 equal to 16:9 ratio? So far I've only seen these units in white, do they come in black or are paintable covers sold? I'm thinking of starting with this style with these resolutions like this: 2 @ 1.3mp 1 @ 2mp (1080p) 1 @ 3mp on a 4 or eight channel NVR Are there any other HikVision models I might consider?

I'm glad I found this thread. I'm trying to pick a NVR and cameras I wasn't going to give any thought to wires. I am kinda squeamish about making my own cables. I had not so great luck with coaxial compression, but I didn't had a stripper, only the compression tool. The end result was wasted connectors, and a messy looking cable. When it comes to CAT5e or CAT6 I have two things that echo in my head. The first is when a tech guy spend 11 hours at my work running a Ethernet cable and when he was done it didn't work. He came back the next day for another 3 hours. [Then the cable was only used three weeks and the computer was moved I love massive corporations!] The other thing that echos in my head was when I was pricing wire length and the tools needed. The guy said, "yeah, it's cheaper this way, if you can ever get it to work. I just buy the pre-made ones." Those three things together make me all So I ask, is there anything wrong with the store bought ones? And what should I look for if they are 'ok'. But really is making you cable all that hard. I'll be running, at most, 75 metres (225'). The guy at work was running cable in a 50,000 square foot store, from one corner to the far side corner, and not on the shortest angle. The guy at the store was a big box Depot store guy.

I agree Don Stephens, it's likely not a laser causing the problem. It also is unlikely (but still possible, although highly unlikely) a cable issue. IR could be the problem, but I also think it could but a power issue. A bad power supply or... The original poster could think about what in the house powers on and off at those times. Outdoor lights on a timer, or anything on a timer on THAT same breaker switch. [i currently have a newly developed power issue with a TV, Bluray player, and kitchen light. I haven't looked into the problem, and it's not an issue for a CCTV forum so I won't going into much detail. Anyway, sometimes when the kitchen light is turned on the TV will go blank for a second or two, if a BluRay is playing the player may freeze for a second or two. This is odd because the TV and player are plugging into an APC brand UPS.] I suggest the poster try a different power supply plugged into a different source (different circuit breaker). In other words make sure the camera has proper, Clean power. Hey, maybe even the outlet the camera is plugged into loses power at those times (on a timer?)? Also if the cameras use an 'octopus' style power splitter, that could be the problem too. When the installer 'checked' and said everything was fine did he really check everything, or just the new DVR?

I have not used Swann DVRs, however, I suspect they may be much like Q-See DVRs, of which I've used a few for some time. Here are some things I've found with three different models of Q-See DVR I've tried since 2008: - setting recording to anything other than all the time leads to some cameras not recording even when a redundant camera does. - camera connections, and faulty wires can lead to all kinds of odd 'recordings' - the day/night sensor is not working properly. there might be some thing in the manual on how to correct this. (One camera I have says to cover the camera lens for about 10 seconds, keeping as much light out as possible, then quickly allow normal light again. That should reset the sensor. You might have a similar situation, and solution.) - A faulty Hard Drive, DVR, or power supply, and lead to all kinds of problems. So make sure the correct power adapters are being used. Other things to consider: - If the missing recording seem to only take place when you suspect your neighbor is doing something that the camera would catch, perhaps the DVR can handle the extra movement (bandwidth). [Hopefully some one else can explain this better than I can.] - the hard drive is over writing the files as it gets full. I'm not sure how DVRs work with more than one hard drive, but if the DVR records 20mins to one hard drive, then the next 20mins to the second hard drive, you could lose a segment in the middle of a given time frame. [Again, maybe some one can explain this better.] - sunrise and set can cause glare in the camera. And as the seasons change the sunrise and set angles change too. So a fine angle in November might get glare in January. But the solace took place December 21-22, so if this is the issue it should correct itself soon. The thought of someone going to such trouble to aim a laser at a camera, not knowing if it has any effect, suggests they need a real hobby, and probably counselling. I take it you have 'bullet' style cameras. Dome styles can help hide the direction of the camera, and it's lens. A PTZ camera would really make a laser saboteur useless; if he aims the laser, the PTZ could be moved in seconds, with out him knowing, just enough to keep the laser out and what you want still in the frame. Redundant cameras, relocating, and 'hidden' cameras all can help foil anyone attempting to elude video capture. Surely if the cameras get relocated the saboteur will being to wonder the he has defeated the ones he desires to. Even just taking one down can cause the person to wonder "Where is THAT one NOW?!?" I once bought a set of six LED solar mountable (on a wall or fence etc) lights. A neighbor noticed them a thought I had six little cameras pointing every which way within about six feet of each other out the front of my house. He learned they where little garden lights he felt very embarrassed. This could be interesting for a rumor spreading, laser pointing fool. Please keep us posted on any solution you achieve.

I'm glad to hear what I said helped. If you are going with a HDCVI DVI the coax is ideal. The biggest plus of HDCVI is to ability to use the existing coax cable already run. Trying to use CAT5 or 6 with a system designed for coax is just many headaches. The best reasons I can think of NOT to try using CAT5 or 6 with a system designed for coax is that will most likely will void your warranty.

In designing a home CCTV system I've thought about the advantages and disadvantages of using one DVR with say 16 channels, or 2 DVRs with 8 channels each, or even 4 DVRs with 4 channels each. I'll list the pros and cons I have so far, and hope that others here can add to the list. Also, maybe they can add what/why customers what those different set-ups. A single DVR Pros: - simplicity [one controller (mouse), one power source, one password to remember] - one monitor, all channels can be viewed at once on one screen - lower cost - less space Muilti DVR Pros: - DVRs can be kept in multiple locations (this can be for security, or practical reason [ie: cable runs]) - upgrade and buy more systems as you need - use multiple monitors with fewer channels on each for better viewing. - if one DVR dies, they others may still live on - smaller DVR can often dedicate more hard drive space per channel - can use different DVRs with different features best suited for each camera setup I didn't list CONs as I feel the advantage of one set up is likely the dis-advantage of the other set up. I do encourage people to list cons of either option. In others words a disadvantage to one setup in which the alternative setup has no advantage/pro or a totally different pro (I have no example right now; related to CCTV or not). My lists also assumes DVR, NVR, or PC based system is the primary viewing, recording and playback device.

Welcome to Marketing Math 101. fps means Frames Per Second. It's how smooth the video will be shown. TV shows, and most video is 30fps. CCTV (DVR recordings) can be 30fps or less. less fps means 'jerker' video, but also means more video time saved on a hard drive. Most digital CCTV is recording at 15 or less fps and is set in the DVR settings by the user. here's the math: when you talk of 120fps, and even higher this is what many DVR manufacturers will quote fps for the whole dvr. That means the dvr itself can record a maximum of 120fps, for all the cameras it is recording. a dvr with 120fps and 4 cameras recording and record a maximum of 30fps per camera. If that same dvr has 8 cameras recording it drops to a maximum of 15fps. Sneaky DVR manufactures will state fps/dvr and you then need to divide that number by them number of channels the dvr has. 120fps divided by 4 channels = 30fps each channel 120fps divided by 8 channels = 15fps each channel 120fps divided by 16 channels = 7fps* each channel 120fps divided by 32 channels = 3fps* each channel most dvrs will have a higher state fps with more channels 240fps, and 480fps but when it's divided by the number of channels it's all the same. You won't likely find a dvr with over 30fps/channel. Also, a DVR that claims 120fps, will still never be able to record 120fps on any single channel. *always round down. A dvr that states it records at 30fps is likely states the fps per channel (usually a sign of a better unit). No matter what, always read the fine print, and pray they actually are honest. fun stuff: BluRay movies play at 60fps, and anything recorded over 60fps is generally used in playback at a slower rate to give a smooth slow motion effect. More than you needed to know, but now at parties you can share this, and clear everyone away from the chip bowl, and have it all to yourself.

I believe when it comes to anything tech it is almost always best to only buy what you need, as you need it. The DVR you mentioned is a 16CH, no HDD, Hybrid. Here is what I would think about: If not using IP cameras now, and don't want to run CAT5e, why bother with a hybrid? If you are keeping the old DVR, do you need 16CH? If you are using to HDD from the old system in the new system, remember if you double the cameras the saved recorded time will be cut in about half, and higher res would make the saved record time even less. Any CCTV system you buy will likely do anything for the sale of the property. Most people don't know anything about these systems It would likely be listed as "a CCTV security camera system". Detailed info would likely tell the buyer the number of cameras, you can see them via the 'net, and that they record. So a quality, feature rich system, isn't worth it to sell a home. If you want more cameras now, I suggest buying a system much like the one you have now. Another 8CH DVR, and use it along side your current one. If you pick higher res cameras (960TVL?) hook those up where you want better images, and move the 700TVL to other places. To keep using your TV to view both DVR buy a switch for the video. These switches are pretty cheap http://www.amazon.com/3-In-1-Composite-Selector-Switch-DPNY/dp/B004ZH62PQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421555240&sr=8-2&keywords=TV+switch or for HDMI http://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421555338&sr=8-6&keywords=TV+HDMI+switch HDCVI is a way to improve quality without running new cables. It lets you avoid the need to know about IP networking too. It is not going to give you anything close to digital though. I feel it life span is a short one and IP cameras will push it out quickly. I recall something like this with computers years ago. the old ISA bus was being phased out, and the new VESA bus was coming in, but then PCI came out. ISA was still needed, VESA was popular, but everyone wanted PCI. For a few months computer main boards called VIP sold (VIP boards had all three buses on them). It wasn't a gimmick, but it wasn't to last either, just an easy way to upgrade without ditching your older stuff. No matter what root you go consider this: When you run cables for the additional cameras, maybe run CAT5e (or CAT6) at the same time. With the Hybrid DVR you could choose to get an IP camera to learn, before you buy a high end system. In closing (finally?), I see these options for you: 1. Get the DVR you mentioned and go with the plan you've considered. 2. Buy a second DVR like the one you have (or something close to it), and run two DVRs with a switch. 3. Get a budget wise IP NVR and run it along side your current DVR. 4. Save all your cash for the IP based system you really want (aka, get nothing now). I like number 2. and running the cable and CAT5e to new camera locations. I was right where you are no so long ago. For me snaking Cat5e wires or RG6 will be simple as I put empty conduits in along side the one I was using. BTW, I've picked option 4 for now. I hope all this hasn't made you choice harder.

Do cameras using SD cards... 1. use the SD card to work like a DVR for each camera? 2. overwrite data on an ongoing basis? 3. save much time on a 32gb card? (7fps - 30fps, & 720p - 3mp, compression etc.) 4. need a 10x (high end) brand name (Lexar, etc) sd card, or can a 'no name' cheap card be used? 5a. stop recording, and retain (keeps) it's lastest data, if it loses contact with the IP? 5b. use SD cards as a fail safe device for NVR, FTP, etc? 6. report missing or SD card read/write fails (for aging, damaged, or stolen cards)? 7. loses power will the last file it was writing be readable? With regards to question 5. If the camera loses power of course it will retain it's data and stop recording, but if it's not PoE, or if the PoE is injected and only the IP connect is lost what happens to the cameras ongoing recording? (Ie. Camera supports 12v separate power, or user has injected PoE near the camera and the NVR, switch, or router are disconnected (stolen)?) I'm trying to decide if SD carded cameras are worth it. I mean it would be upsetting if you needed the SD recording, then found out any one of the above issues made the feature useless. ...and at #6 stolen SD card, I mean... really? The visual image had me ROTFLMAO!

The above is so true. It raises another question, can the SD card be formatted in the camera. And can all files, corrupt ones too, be copied from the card for attempted repair on a PC? The only time I'd want to have to physically remove a card would be to replace it (they have a limited number of writes), or to use the physical card for legal reasons. Does anyone know if any IP cameras use XD (64GB+) cards yet?

If a building is broken into it could plausibly be accessed unless hidden. I'd go for a closet or something else nondescript. It's actually quite easy to hide things if you think a little while on it, and it's not like you need to protect against an invasive search warrant; just some people in there for a typically short period of time. I can think of valid reasons to want/need to hide a home DVR really well. 1. you have a son or daughter (likely in their teens) and whom you have reasons to not to trust. This person is likely to not only know you have video cameras, but also a DVR. 2. Your son/daughter have friends... and 1. ditto. 3. Your have a renter... and 1. ditto. But don't have proof or just cause to terminate to tenant agreement. In the above situations the person(s) may have lots of time, and many times to search for a DVR. They could search many times with out you knowing they even looked. I'm not going to say why simply finding the DVR is bad, this isn't a "How to defeat a CCTV system" board after all. Two other reasons to want a DVR well hidden would be paranoia, or criminal intent. And if there is a search warrant the DVR will be found (again I won't say how), no matter where it's hidden. As for why not to put a DVR/NVR/VCR, or other CCTV recorder in an attic, it's just a bad location all around. A better BAD location would be the cold air return. <- Don't do that either! If you need to hide it, make a hiding spot. Here are some simple ideas (somewhat lame also) make a fake floor vent, hide it in the floor. Heck, do that under your fridge; about as hard to get to as the attic, and your going to know if someones been rolling your fridge all over the place. buy an old non working receiver/amp. rip out the inside, and put the DVR in the case. If you want, and know how, buy a little cheap stereo and make the amp appear to be real, and working. (never mind all those extra wires coming out the back. use a PC case to hide the DVR. a full tower case can house a computer and a lot more. almost any old electronic case is a good decoy, just remember a thief might steal it not knowing/wanting your DVR. THIEF THINKING: "Whoa, a BATA MAX VCR! Hooked up too. Must still work. Score. It's even got an HDMI port!!!! I'll be able to buy some good dope with the cash I get from selling this." remember anything you can think of so can some one else. it's best to just tuck it away, out of the way. A basement closet, on a shelf higher than the door opening is great. A lock box can help stop tampering. Locking the closet door could help too. Remember also that some times to more 'hiding' you do, the obvious it becomes.

Thanks folks for your responses about using the correct hard drive. It's good to know it that the Western Digital Purple drives are not just sales hype. I just looked into the prices of those drives and a 3TB one costs < 1% more compared to a WD Green drive. I just read purple drives also come in an 'IntelliSeek technology' model, to save power, reduce heat, and prolong life, likely what's needed in larger systems. As for WD over Seagate; Let's remember WD, and HGST, are both owned by Seagate now. Thanks Secplus for responding about compatibility. I only asked about size, but there are other things to consider also. WD only mentions connection types (SATA I/II, PATA, EIDE, converters, etc) with regards compatibility. Speed, heat, etc. are other things. With regards to compatibility, I am still considering a NVR by AvertX, or possibly HikVision. AvertX states their NVRs use WD Purple drives (some pre-installed).

Can a DVR that says it supports a hard drive up to say 1TB use a 2TB hard drive? And can a DVR that says it supports a hard drive up to 3TB use a 4TB or greater size? I know that 2TB is the limit on older devices. But if a DVR was designed when 1TB hard drives were the maximum size is there any reason the DVR might not be able to use something larger? Same with systems that say 3TB max, or 4TB max (Hard drives go up to at least 6TB now). The next question I have is regards to the type of hard drive. I think Western Digital makes a bunch of different styles [Green - Eco friendly, Blue - everyday computers, Black - performance, Red - NAS and Purple - Surveillance ] class hard drives. I think that is the price scale in order. Does it matter greatly if you use one over the other in a DVR or NVR. I know the **claims**, but has anyone actually used these and noticed a difference? **Claims** for the WD Purple are no lost FPS, and drive that will last running 24/7/365. My guess is that a Green drive will work, but will fail sooner than others, a blue is okay for lesser FPS, lower res, or/and few cameras. Black would be okay overall. Red, no clue. Purple, if it's as they say, should do it all. This question is a no brainner, but I'll ask anyway: Is it okay to mix Hard drive sizes, brands, and types? Unless you are making a RAID set up, why might it matter?

I'm new here, so Hi every one. I am here to learn about IP cameras, NVRs and the whole CCTV thing I guess. I'd say my interest is basically a hobby. Here's how my CCTV story goes... Years ago my mother didn't like all the unknown people coming to her door (sales people, utility service guys, MIB etc). So I looked at CCTV systems. I knew nothing about them, but learned enough to decide to buy a system. The system was a DVR, with 4 tiny cameras, by Q-See. It was perfect. Later I bought a second system to cover blind spots. Now there was no blind spots, a week of recording time, and my choice of blue or orange grass . New systems by Q-See had now come out, with more TVL (first two systems where 410TVL), and I bought one. Currently the system works with 6 cameras, 4 at 520TVL, and 2 at 600TVL, and correct colours. Now I'm looking for something a bit better. The Q-See units I have are old, and failing, and Q-See products seem to be something I've out grown. For me, this is a hobby, so I could take my time thinking about this unit or that set up etc. However, for my Mother, it's something she now relies on, and sometimes likes to watch it if nothing is on TV . So, when the CCTV goes down, I get called to fix it, and that means quickly. The system now fails about every 60 days, I suspect the hard drive controller is the reason (It's not the hard drives, they've been replaced, same with the power supply). To get it working I have to unplug everything, take out the hard drives, format with using a PC, put them back in the DVR, format them with the DVR, and hook everything back up. So now I'm thinking why not go NVR, and IP Cameras at 1080p. I'd like also to maybe even build a PC as a NVR, that way I know what's inside, and how to upgrade it. On that side I guess software would be my challenge. I hope this board will help me learn.