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UMDRanger

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Posts posted by UMDRanger

  3. Posted

    VST- Hooah.

     

    I walked into my old job today, and literally upon sight "Hey, do you need a job?". So starting tomarrow I'm back at work. Sounds like a 30 something camera job is first on my project list.

  5. Posted

    Well you'll need someway to send the communication from the computer to the PTZ. This is usually done via a RS232-->RS485 converter. You can buy Geovision's GV-Net, or a cheapie off Ebay. Personally I have the "pretty" GV-Net.

  6. Posted

    Thanks Rory. I saw a few PTZs on the sides of buildings but thats all I saw. I am sure Infantry has some nice CCTV equiped toys. Oh and they were testing some drone when my unit was at the MOUT site. We could hear it, but not see it. I'll be a Quartermaster Officer once my training is complete.

  7. Posted

    Hey all,

     

    Been a while since I posted. In December 05 I shipped off for US Army Basic Training, and OCS. I am now at my Reserve unit awaiting orders. So now we have to get the old CCTV setup back online. Gotta wait for my new power supply to show up before I can get the Geovision PC back online. Geovision's PS is on temp duty on the main PC due to it's failure.

     

    If I don't get full time, or deployed right away we'll be trying to land another job in the security field.

     

    Peace...UMDRanger

  8. Posted

    Been a while since I posted last. Will need to hit the Intro thread next I guess. Anyways...

     

    I have a Sensormatic/American Dynamics/Tyco Speeddome ultra IV I got last year. It boots up, does it's homing check, and waits for controller data.

     

    CR LEDS

    LED 2 Green, blinks.

    LED 3 Red, blinks during homing/start up checks, then remains solid.

    LED 4 Orange, stays solid on.

     

    From what I've gathered from the manuals, blinking red means the software is working. So I am assuming a solid red means the software has a problem.

     

    Anyone have any ideas?

     

    I downloaded the latest driver firmware, but without the USB device, not sure if I can upload somehow via Geovision... which is still offline.

  10. Posted

    I have the ACD-200 day/night. It works for my need/use of watching my car in the parking lot. But it is not good enough at the distance I have it at for identifying and prosecuting, unless ofcourse I knew the person.

  14. Posted

    The two screws by the 4 fuses are for the cameras. Note the polarity as you said it is DC output. Cut the power adapter to the camera, again note the polarity, and screw to terminals. I assume the camera will still use the adapter for power.

     

    I think this is what you mean"

     

    power box: fused outputs

    + terminal ----------> center pin (power to camera)

    - terminal ----------> outer ring on plug (power to camera)

     

    input: G is ground. L and M I assume are AC hot and neutral. But I don't mess with 120VAC so I'm not sure which goes where.

  15. Posted

    My budget of $1000 is only for the DVR, I will pay extra for the cameras

     

    This makes a big difference. But keep in mind, if you buy a cheaper camera, you'll get a cheap image and will be buying a better one. Know this from experience.

     

    For camera suggestions, we need to know how much light is in the area you want the camera to watch. Streetlamps, motion floodlights, nothing, etc. What is the distance you want to view from each camera? A large backyard, just a door, etc.

  19. Posted

    Yea no doubt about the weight. It has taken quite a beating over the years. I moved it up stairs by myself with a dolly and lots of rope and pillows. lol. My college roommates (200lbs each) could barely carry the tv for longer than 50'. They didn't make any good handholds on this, and the bottom corners were so sharp.

     

    Eh, the GF's brother said he'd buy her a new TV, but I'll believe it when I see it. Oh well, as long as my 13" holds out.

     

    Anyone know a good place to take this? Or costs they will charge? I know I can't just toss it in the dumpster.

  20. Posted

    Thanks Jasper.

     

    Its an old, bulky and heavy SOB so I was trying to find a way to not have to carry it down the narrow stairs myself. I suppose having a tech look at it would probably be more expensive than buying a new one, such is the way of technology today. Thanks for the good advice guys, will take.

  21. Posted

    I have a RCA 32" TV that decided to stop working. When I came home from shopping the other day, my GF said the TV is broke. It had been on, but then the screen went blank and the only audio was a high pitched squealing noise from the back of the unit. She then smelled electrical components burning and unplugged the TV from the outlet (I am actually surprised she realized to do this). Upon plugging it back in, the high pitched squealing kicks in, and I unplug quickly. A google search said to check the resistance accross the Horizontal Output Transistor, and that is should be at a certain level. But I don't know what that level should be. It is now at 20 Ohms... I think. (my electronics are pretty rusty and while better than most of the population, not on a technical level). Upon poking around, checking the resistance, etc, I powered it back up and have a slightly different noise, still high pitched, but on a different part of the circuit board.

     

    Anyone have any experience with fixing these types of problems? If it is as simple as replacing a few components, soldering is something I can do.

     

    Thanks.

  23. Posted

    I've found I need to reformat my Toshiba laptop about once every 1-2 years. It just gets too slow. No viruses, spyware, etc. Defrags, lots of HD space still, etc. Dunno the reason. If you find the problem, please post it. Reformatting sucks.

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