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Need advise about outdoor LED Motion lights

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We're almost there..... If it wasn't for life getting in the way of all of my little projects, well, I guess my projects would get done sooner!

 

I'm down to the wire (no pun intended) on my CCTV system and was looking for some IR's for some of the cams. Then I read somewhere that some solar powered, motion activated LED lights would be the way to go. I agree for lots of reasons.

 

I read that one of the more common problems is the moths and other bugs that are attracted to the light, thus continually setting of the MD and running the batteries down prematurely. Obviously, a system with a remote mounted MD would be best eh?

 

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

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Yea, typically visible light is best - the cameras can produce a better picture with it than IR. No matter the light type, bugs will be attracted to it. Thats why its good to have it on a properly set motion detector. Also, don't use cameras with built-in IR, as bugs will get in the way of the camera view!

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Bugs and small animals won't set off PIR-activated lights, LED or otherwise.

 

Also, don't use cameras with built-in IR, as bugs will get in the way of the camera view!

 

That's another benefit to using motion-triggered white lights rather than always-on IR: bugs flitting in front of the IR, whether built-in or not, will still usually trigger the DVR's motion recording. With PIR-activated white light, once the light goes out, the bugs become "invisble" to the camera and will no longer trigger recording.

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Thanks for the replies guys. Can anyone recommend a brand?

 

I found some Westinghouse PIR lights on Amazon but the reviewers all said they were cheap c**p.

 

My electrical supplier has some real fancy ones, but $200 for a night light is a bit steep. The salesman even advised me to look online for a better deal!

 

I may have mentioned this before but we live in the forest and this time of year there are moths the size of birds slamming into the porch lights. That's why thought it would be best to have the motion sensor mounted away from the actual light.

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Yea, typically visible light is best - the cameras can produce a better picture with it than IR. No matter the light type, bugs will be attracted to it. Thats why its good to have it on a properly set motion detector. Also, don't use cameras with built-in IR, as bugs will get in the way of the camera view!

Though typically visible light is better, that excludes White LED.

Example, Infrared LED can be a further distance than White LED (source, Raytec).

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I'm familiar with the size of moths you're talking about (Cariboo boy here, remember) - there's still not enough body mass or heat output from them to trip a PIR.

 

If you have 120VAC readily available, you could always use something like a standard PIR-equipped floodlight socket (probably around $30 at Home Repo), and then LED bulbs on standard threaded bases.

 

There's also something like this (haven't used it, so I have no opinion on its quality):

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/solar-motion-activated-security-light/924799

 

Or you could use whatever sort of lighting (low-voltage or otherwise) you already have, and trigger it with one or two basic PIR sensors from an alarm system (most likely need to use a relay with that).

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Also, why do you need LED - they are still so expensive. I've been using 20W (100W equivalent) CFL flood lights in all of my PIR light socket for a while now - they work fine! They do take a minute to warm up - and at first light they put out only like 60%.

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If you're trying to capture quick-moving subjects, you probably want instant full-brightness... plus LED is still far lower power consumption than even CFL.

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Also, why do you need LED - they are still so expensive. I've been using 20W (100W equivalent) CFL flood lights in all of my PIR light socket for a while now - they work fine! They do take a minute to warm up - and at first light they put out only like 60%.

 

Sorry for the delayed reply, work eh......

 

We live completely off grid and generate our power from our creek, 450 W continuous, so we are very energy conscious.

 

I keep seeing those LED, solar powered ones and figured they would be the way to go. They would be placed in the trees around our place, for security and convenience, and the idea of running wire to each one is totally not happening....

 

If you're trying to capture quick-moving subjects, you probably want instant full-brightness... plus LED is still far lower power consumption than even CFL.

 

Exactly. We have CFL flood lights around the house and on really cold nights, they take forever to simply come on. LED's are expensive at Homo Despot, but we have found some online that are fairly reasonable.... (just know that "Made in China" can mean, "Fail and burn down house"!)

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That is so cool! Do you have any pictures/videos of your generator setup? How do you store your power when the stream output slows? Battery array of some sort?

 

Also, when you are choosing your LED bulbs, the main things you need to compare is the lumen rating (light output), as well as the beam spread of the light. There are other things like color temperature. Warm colors like 2700K look better typically (because people are used to the warm color of incandescents).

 

I bet plugging in a 100W incandescent flood would be a big no-no in your house!

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Actually, we do have a couple of 100W floods in the front of the house, but we sure don't leave them on for too long!

 

The gizmo is called a "Stream Engine", it's made by a company in Nova Scotia called Energy Systems & Design. It generates 30A @ 12V and we store the power in 8, 100 AH batteries. The excess power is sent into a "load dump", a basic heating element. We invert to 120V AC with a pure sine inverter, which runs the washing machine, power tools, fridge and all the other goodies.

 

I have some pictures on my laptop hard drive (LT died a couple of weeks ago), but it'll take some doing to post them and after a long week on the road, I'm ready for bed....

 

I'll work on getting them up tomorrow.

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We live completely off grid and generate our power from our creek, 450 W continuous, so we are very energy conscious.

 

I keep seeing those LED, solar powered ones and figured they would be the way to go. They would be placed in the trees around our place, for security and convenience, and the idea of running wire to each one is totally not happening....

Sounds like quite the setup. I'll really have to arrange to pop up for a visit the next time I'm headed up that way!

 

LED's are expensive at Homo Despot, but we have found some online that are fairly reasonable.... (just know that "Made in China" can mean, "Fail and burn down house"!)

Fortunately, probably not much of an issue at 12V

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Hey Soundy, that sounds like a plan! Just bring your tools and be prepared to work!

 

Of course, you'll have to get past the wifer. She is quite sensitive to folks just landing here for "the tour". Quote, "This isn't freekin Disneyland"....

 

Oh well, she can be quite nice, kinda like a pitbull.....

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That is so cool! Do you have any pictures/videos of your generator setup? How do you store your power when the stream output slows? Battery array of some sort?

 

Also, when you are choosing your LED bulbs, the main things you need to compare is the lumen rating (light output), as well as the beam spread of the light. There are other things like color temperature. Warm colors like 2700K look better typically (because people are used to the warm color of incandescents).

 

I bet plugging in a 100W incandescent flood would be a big no-no in your house!

 

 

We call it "The Snow Cave"

waterwarsathome0101-1.jpg

 

One Stream Engine chugging along nicely. It was 20 below Celcius the day I took the pic.

waterwarsathome007-1.jpg

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Forgive my ignorance (I live in an area where people panic below 0C), but how is your stream still running at -20C?...I guess it still stays running at some depth below the surface ice?

 

Seems pretty neat, overall- I was wondering if the load dump could be (or is already) a separate element in your water heater, to be able to gain heat from that, instead of being wasted?

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I guess it still stays running at some depth below the surface ice?

 

I was wondering if the load dump could be (or is already) a separate element in your water heater, to be able to gain heat from that, instead of being wasted?

 

Yep, the water never freezes under the ice... that's the trick. The only time we have serious freezing issues is on clear nights at -30 and below. We get what they call "frizzle ice", little slivers of ice floating in the water that clings to everything, especially our intake screen!

 

That pic of the turbine was taken after one such incident. I spent the better part of 2 days fighting the freeze, eventually gave in and pulled the pipe and started the genny.... I hate that...

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Sorry hardwired, I forgot to answer your second question... Yes, a water heater is in the works. I have a 12/24V heater element, but the tank I was going to use is no good. Oh well, it was a dump find... or as we say around here "the mall".

 

So here's a link to the motion lights I'm getting. Not to cheap but not over the top either...

 

http://www.outdoorsolarstore.com/watchdog-solar-security-light.aspx?gclid=CPmroaej4qoCFUSK4AodBhmX6g

 

We ordered 3 of them, so let's hope they work as advertised.

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So here's a link to the motion lights I'm getting. Not to cheap but not over the top either...

That looks decent. Does anyone know exactly how much sun (time) these kind of lights need? And do they need 'direct' sunlight, or just 'daylight'.

I'm asking because I live in The Netherlands and it's pretty much always clouded here

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So here's a link to the motion lights I'm getting. Not to cheap but not over the top either...

That looks decent. Does anyone know exactly how much sun (time) these kind of lights need? And do they need 'direct' sunlight, or just 'daylight'.

I'm asking because I live in The Netherlands and it's pretty much always clouded here

 

AFAIK, they need about 6 hours of direct sunlight. I suppose it all depends on how often they turn on and for how long as to how much re-charge they'll need. Our place is on the north side of a 8500ft mountain and we get no sun at all for 2 1/2 months every winter, so this will be a good experiment.

 

We do have a spring fed creek that never dries up, so there's yer upside.

 

Thx for link

u give me idea

this light can be easily modified for 12 volts and use for installs

 

Ok, I'm curious now. I have a 12V based system, as mentioned before, so it wouldn't be too hard to convert them to that, but they're 6V units. Knowing that LED's are run of of current rather than voltage, are you thinking of just wiring them for 12?

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Ok, I'm curious now. I have a 12V based system, as mentioned before, so it wouldn't be too hard to convert them to that, but they're 6V units. Knowing that LED's are run of of current rather than voltage, are you thinking of just wiring them for 12?

I don't have any clear idea how to convert them. If you have any tutorial please post here...Thanks in advance.

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