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understanding camera info

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can someone explain what this all means

 

•Image Sensor: 1/2.5" IR-CUT CMOS Sensor

•TV System: PAL/NTSC(Can only choose one of them)

•Effective Pixels: PAL 792(H)X698(V) NTSC 768(H)X494(V)

•Lens: Built in 6mm Lens (3.6mm and 6mm Option)

•Horizontal Resolution: 1000TVL

•Infrared LED number: 36pcs LED (0.5mm)

•Minimum Illumination: 1.0Lux F=1.2 (0Lux with IR on)

•S/N ratio: ≥48dB

•Video Output: 1.0Vp-p.75. BNC Connector

•AGC: Auto

•White Balance: Auto

•Backlight Compensation: Auto

•Exposure Mode: EE

•Electronic Shutter: 1/50(1/60) - 1/100000 sec

 

Have been reading on here a bit but its still all a bit over my head, does this sound/look like a good camera

 

thanks

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You can't really tell from those specs. Looks to me like a cheap cam with a modern sensor though. It'll probably have significant to serious trouble in complex lighting and you may or may not be happy with it at night. Daytime performance in even lighting will depend on lens quality. There is no way to tell from a spec sheet how crisp a lens really is.

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Let's break this down.

 

•Image Sensor: 1/2.5" IR-CUT CMOS Sensor Either Sony or Aptina. Better than 1/3" but not 100% sure on the make

•TV System: PAL/NTSC(Can only choose one of them) Standard

•Effective Pixels: PAL 792(H)X698(V) NTSC 768(H)X494(V) This is good they list this way. Some sellers fudge and use Total pixels which really doesn't do much.

•Horizontal Resolution: 1000TVL Combine with a 1/2.5, looks good so far

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•Lens: Built in 6mm Lens (3.6mm and 6mm Option) There is no mention on the quality of the lens. Lenses from Japan, Korea and China, usually in that order, range in great quality down to just Ok. There is no mention here if the lens has IR correction yet IR is included in the camera. Further more the lens size is not mentioned but I am guessing it is an M12, that would explain the poor lux performance.

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•Infrared LED number: 36pcs LED (0.5mm) No mention of the brand, wave length or "effective distance"

•Minimum Illumination: 1.0Lux F=1.2 (0Lux with IR on) Not impressive as lux levels on decent cameras are on the right of the decimal such as 0.01, 0.003 ,etc. 0 Lux with IR on tells me the IR's are not that great and you range is probably 20 feeet or less

•S/N ratio: ≥48dB Average

•Video Output: 1.0Vp-p.75. BNC Connector Standard CCTV 1 volt peak to peak

•AGC: Auto Standard

•White Balance: Auto Standard

•Backlight Compensation: Auto Standard

•Exposure Mode: EE Standard

•Electronic Shutter: 1/50(1/60) - 1/100000 sec Suspect

 

Overall I would agree with Kawboy12r that the information is vague. This almost seems like the cheap crap you find on Ebay. There is a seller on Ebay "Good.." something, the name escapes me, that peddles junk. Without knowing the actual chip manufacturer and model you don't know the true specs. Back in the day Sharp was known for the bottom of the barrel and quality was noticeable vs a Sony. Most Sony ones were about $15-$25 more but after seeing a side-by-side you could see why. There are so many new chip manufacturers such as Aptina that have great chips but like Kawboy12r mentioned you don't know the clarity of the lens. The lens and it's "F" stop rating, lower the better, makes a big difference.

 

The formula to think about is: Buy a cheap $40 camera then realize it is bad, buy a cheap $55 camera and realize it isn't much better when you can do a little research for free, spend around $100 -$150 and come out ahead in price, time and aggravation.

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OK thanks for all that info, I'm really looking for a camera what will perform quite well during the day mostly as there have been a huge rise of dog theft in my area and they are being used as bait dogs.

 

People are coming to your house while your at work to see what dogs you have then marking your house with a small paint dot or sticking some rubbish in your fence and then someone is coming back later to steel the dogs.

 

I only have a cheap system (ebay special) that I just for general use but with the rise in dog theft im unsure weather to upgrade the whole thing or just get some new cameras. the system can handle 8 cameras and I only have 4 cheap ones that came with the system.

 

What you guys recomond?? I don't want to spend $400 on a new DVR setup then another $100 - $150 on each camera.

If I can just keep the cameras I have and use them in general areas then have 1 or 2 good cameras in the main access areas I think that would be ok.

 

does anyone have a link to some recommended cameras

 

Pete

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Forget better wide angle cams if you already have some cheap ones to tell you what is going on. You need to identify choke points where they'll have to cross to get to the dogs. Just one good closeup pic to get a mugshot to go with your cheap wide angle ones that came with the DVR. It's hard to give exact recommendations for lens length without knowing your layout but I consider 6mm a minimum for driveway coverage. 10-12mm is usually better for half decent facial shots and possible plates at the end of a 40-50 foot driveway. Samsung's SCO-2080R is a good varifocal bullet but a bit more than you're wanting to spend. Gadspot.com has decent bullets and you'll probably be quite happy with one in the $100 range. Spend til it hurts.

 

If you only need one to cover say the front of your home, if you have a reasonably recent desktop computer then something like this (or maybe the 12mm or 4mm version depending on distance or location) hooked up to it using NVR software will give you WAY more detail in the day than even a MUCH more expensive analog camera. I wouldn't go lower than 6mm if you want really good detail beyond 20-30 feet. The 12mm version can snag a plate from a moving vehicle under ideal conditions in the day at over 70 feet.

 

I personally find it hard to recommend analog stuff unless quite a few extra cameras are needed and there's absolutely no budget to spend a bit more for megapixel gear. One or two megapixel cameras recording to a desktop running free or cheap software will yield much more detail (especially recorded detail) than analog gear. Analog can do the job, but once you compare to megapixel stuff you'll probably never want another analog cam again. The Hikvision stuff is really quite good for the money, especially for daytime work. One cam (under $170), a cat5 cable ($10-$25 depending on length), and a 48v 802.3af PoE injector ($20 range) will connect into the router you probably already have and you're good to go. Milestone's XProtect Go is excellent free software, so for just about $200 you can dip your toes in the megapixel world if you've already got a computer you can leave turned on.

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Effective Pixels: PAL 792(H)X698(V) NTSC 768(H)X494(V) Horizontal Resolution: 1000TVL.

 

I really do can't believe that, recently some supplier has provide SONY IMX 138( 1920*720P) + FH8520( China DSP) and claim reach upto 1200TVL, do you beleive that? even better than 1080P.

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@ Joseph

 

The IMX chipset regardless of the claimed TVL looks impressive and should not be discounted. When the 600TVL cameras came out a few were good and other I thought a 480tvl camera "Looked better" Live view, compression and resolution play a large part. Even your monitor makes a difference. I find some cheap LCDs have dry look while other make the image pop. Testing on a CCTV tube monitor I think give a richer effect. IMX shows promise as the best bang for the buck in that market segment.

 

@Kawboy

Finally a breath of fresh air. Someone that understand a camera for a specific function NOT one camera fits all. Control ingress and egress (choke points) and you should be 90% there. Controlling lighting and angles is the next.

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