Door won't lock!! Secure Perfect to Software House CCure

[joshrountree 0]

Fairly simple building, 15 readers, 4 levels.

 

Replaced a Secure Perfect system that was installed in December 2003 with a Software House CCure system. New panel, new HID readers, new j-boxes, kept existing wiring and door power supplies.

 

We have two doors that won't lock, after you swipe enough of the voltage stays energized to keep the door unlocked. We've re-crimped the b-connectors at the crash bar with no luck. After we swipe and the door unlocks, we can pull the relay and the door will lock. Sometimes it will lock after the first swipe, not always, any swipe after that and the voltage stays.

 

System was very functional/reliable before the switch, and it's 2 doors.

 

Any ideas? My installer tried flipping the wires at the relay, switching negative instead of positive and no luck. He wants to try a diode next.

[ssmith10pn 0]

What kind of crashbar?

High energy latch retraction, Low energy latch retraction, or electrified trim?

[joshrountree 0]

What kind of crashbar?

High energy latch retraction, Low energy latch retraction, or electrified trim?

 

I'm not sure on the model, I'll have to check next week when I'm on-site.

 

Not sure on the latch either, I know when power is removed the door locks, so it's fail-secure right? I don't know if that corresponds to high energy latch retraction or not.

[ssmith10pn 0]

You need to do some investigating. If it's high energy there is a power supply with a dry input to trigger the power to the device.

Von Duprin, Precision, Corbin Ruswin and others are high energy latch retraction.

Some newer low energy devices have constant power at the device and a dry trigger. Identify the device and look at the manual for it.

 

I have experienced several of the von duprin power supplies get sticking relays if they are in high humidity.

[joshrountree 0]

I don't have an exact model (going today to get it), but it looks a lot like a Sargent. And I think it's a rim device.

 

I took a picture of the wires, once I get the manual I can make sure they're right. Maybe it has a bad ground and can't dissipate the current after the relay timer fires?

[ssmith10pn 0]

It might be a precision or a Monarch. Are the Gray wires going to the device or to the Power transfer?

[joshrountree 0]

It might be a precision or a Monarch. Are the Gray wires going to the device or to the Power transfer?

 

 

I feel certain the grey wires are going to the crash bar. The 4 very thin wires (blue, grey, black, yellow) go through a hole in the door and through the hinge.

[ssmith10pn 0]

Dang what a soup sandwich.

Transfer hinge leads are only about 6" long so there is another transition inside the door or behind the hinge on the door side.

Plus another transition on the frame side. That's only 24 or 28 gauge wire.