ptzguy

If I had money to burn(like my ex-employer did) I'd buy Hilti... they last forever but you're paying for it! Keep the batteries away from frost as a replacement battery alone costs a small fortune.

I have a 24v Hitachi SDS+ cordless, bought it last week for £200, bargain!

I used to have a bosch(GHB24) that took some hammering over the years and served its purpose well.

I also have a Makita 18v cordless drill which cost me £100(another bargain), it's nearing its end now after 5yrs of heavy use.

Shop around and you will find some bargains - nobody is buying power tools over here as there is no use for them!!! Google them, read reviews of power tools online and go get yourself some nice pieces of kit.

Buy a decent brand, look after it, get it serviced when it needs servicing, and if you see an employee mistreating your tools hit them around the head with it!

My ol' boss used to say "look after your tools - and your tools will look after you"!

G'luck.

Ok, just read all your posts...

This is what I'm seeing...

A fat dog on a chain chomping on a fat steak...

A cut chain on the gate...

A couple of theives running off into the night with some rather expensive camera gear and a nice set of lights for their garden...

What is it they're taking is it just one type of material(ie. timber, slates, tiles)?

Are the thefts happening on a certain day of the week?

Is it an insider that knows when materials have been delivered and returning at night?

Have a delivery of some expensive materials... leave them in a certain area(preferably inside a building telling all site staff of the delivery)... be the last person to leave site(with the materials)... notify local police of the recent thefts and what you intend on doing... return with a friend or two and be 'dropped-off' at the site with a flask of coffee, some sandwiches, and a camcorder to record the staged ambush... sit in the room where the expensive materials are supposed to be and wait to see which member of your site staff are unloyal, breaking and entering with intent of theft... et voila, your culprit will be in court the next morning " title="Applause" />

G'luck.

i got this $280.00, {probably my first mistake} Hik vision dvr 4 channel 250gb thats supposed to be compatible with android phones for remotely viewing the camera. Turns out the current ge dvrme system that i use for remote viewing is not able to use the same router http port settings [80] or the port settings [1024] as this Hik unit. The Hik uses a 8000 port setting

Apparently you need to down load iVMS-4500 from the 'Apps Store' on your phone.

Check this out;

G'luck.

Hello to all.

Can I first of all just say what a fantastic forum this is and I'm very happy to be a part of it.

Well done to all admin and regular visitors(veterans!) for some invaluable, extremely useful advice and tips with regards to the CCTV/security industry.

Having worked with the installation of biometrics, access control and CCTV myself for a number of years now I very much hope that I can be, and have been, an assistance to those who need it or are seeking guidance.

However...

Forum users, old and new, if you require genuine and unbiased advice, help or guidance with any aspect of this industry, myself, admin and the veterans will be only too happy to assist you...

We do request that when you post a topic, you try to get to the point as clearly and accurately, with as much detail as possible. Read your post a couple of times before you submit, ask yourself 'would they know what I'm remotely talking about'? is it possible to make a drawing or upload a photo or two??

The vast majority of you do go into detail at great length(which is great!), but there are the odd few I've seen lately, and in the archives, that have 2000 reads and 0 replies!

I keep reading them thinking 'what the hell are they talking about?' - not in a negative way, just trying to see their frame of mind/point of view, as I said before I'm only too happy to help if it's in plain english.

I'm not quoting anybody's posts, to spare their humiliation, but if you could just spend a couple of minutes beforehand thinking about what you're going to write!

G'luck,

PTZGuy

get yourself something made up yourself, make sure it's robust, durable and Stainless Steel... hide the cables also...

My cousin designed a bed for surgical use, he now supplies nearly 5% of the worlds hospitals and emergency services, and although he isn't 'loaded' he makes a comfortable living 'on the phone' in a nice office with very little work!

If you want me to design something and manufacture it I want 49% of your business...let me know what you think!

G'luck.

2 things parm21..

Is your DVR compatable? what brand/model is it??

If your DVR is compatable does your home network/broadband have a static IP address??

You mentioned a 3.6mm lens is 'wide-angle'.. have you ever compared a 3.6 to a 2.5mm??

3.6mm is still wide angle though, especially with IR. 2.5mm is wider, 1.8mm even wider, etc. Many fixed lens bullets and domes, mostly the ones with IR rings around the lens area, cant fit a 2.5mm lens. The 1.8mm is even bigger, and much more blurry. 3.6/3.8mm is a good wide angle lens with the least amount of blur on the edges.

Hi Rory,

I was just trying to point out that sitting down for 5mins and having a think about what you actually want from the camera and then choosing one to suit can save you time and money.

Why buy and install 3 cameras to cover an area when 2(with the right lenses) will suffice?!

My supplier has such a wiiiide range of cams to choose from, I'm like a child in a sweet shop when it comes to ordering stock!!

The smaller lens cams are slightly more expensive than the 'run of the mill' 3.6-11mm domes but like I said before it's what you want from the cam.

420/520/600TVL 1/3" Sony CCD

Day/night

2.5mm fixed lens or 2.8-11mm varifocal fixed iris lens

25 metre IR range @ 100°- 0 Lux with 36 IR LED- sens up(600TVL only)

3 axis rotation

Dual glass technology

**No 'Blurr' around the edges... the only blurr I got around the edges was from the cheap generic domes(as pictured) 4-11mm lens from Korea - terrible picture around the edges

All I wanted to do was point out the fact that there's a vast range of cameras out there, I would never buy cameras for an install without surveying the job first.

It's ghosting with both cams regardless of which is unplugged??

If you have'nt a ground-loop isolator to test cam by cam I'd start with swapping some baluns around to see what's what.

Let me know how you get on.

G'luck.

Is there a reason you bought the Bosch cams, were they going cheap??

You mentioned a 3.6mm lens is 'wide-angle'.. have you ever compared a 3.6 to a 2.5mm??

What I'm trying to point out is that cameras, the right cameras, do their job well. I would always buy the camera specific to its purpose, survey the area, get up the ladders and take a look at what you want to, or hope to, see. You may need a different lens/camera for every point on your home.

Once I've got all the lenses/views into perspective I then weigh-up the lighting situation. Is the sun going to blind certain cams, do I need cams with good BLC?? Is there minimal light at night or is it complete darkness?? A good WDR cam with ultra low light/lux capabilities can give a better image than a cam with IR, and so on and so on...

Good to hear you have converted from a fleabay DIY Mickey Mouse CCTV enthusiast into a proper DIY CCTV enthusiast!!!

G'luck.

Training clients young and old to operate DVR's I find Adata to have the most simple of interfaces, very, very user friendly.

There's absolutely no chance of pulling in more cables??

hi i was hoping i could get some help im new to installing ptz i got a samsung 27x external ptz was hoping i could get some advice on how to install please.

 

thankyou to all that read and any help is great

Hi Shakerbess,

Firstly you want to make a note of what the protocol, baud rate and address of the dome is. Jumper settings inside the dome allow you to set/adjust these, see the manual(I would keep it nice and simple like address 001, baud 4800, pelco p/d). Do all this on the ground before mounting it, it will save your back.

Aswell as power and video, you need to run a cable(cat5/belden) to the PTZ for data. Also check you're sending the right voltage(12/24 vdc/vac)!

At the rear of the DVR there should be A and B or T and R for you to connect the data cable to. PTZ settings in the DVR menu will need to be set also, it's all self explanatory really...

G'luck.

So you using AXIS VMS?

Axis Camera Station 2.01.011

EXCELLENT SOUNDY THANK YOU!

I just spoke to their IT guy and he is fully aware of DriveSitters capabilities, in fact they have it on their servers so we have a license key!!!

They were so keen to record from the hq-end, which they will probably still do, so we didn't even consider this.

DriveSitter has got to be my #2 favourite software now(TeamViewer #1)... and I cant wait to get my hands on the license key!

Thanks again Soundy - Great stuff, IOU1!

What kind of cable is the 'spare' Jeffrey and how have you got power to cams 2 & 3??

Does your vms support failover or redundant servers?

Ive just upgraded the software to v2...

I can only see 'Alerts' where you can enter upto 3 email addresses - nothing about server/HDD failure...

Does Drivesitter send emails Soundy or has anyone got a handy piece of s/ware for the job?

The fact is, is that I purchased the DVR from an online auction recently and the seller says it was working fine when they took it off line.

I see that there's an IDE HDD there... You could call the sellers bluff and see what, from when, is on the HDD!

remove the top board from the lower board... you're looking for the jumper to reset... im guessing by your post that you may have already looked for/tried this??

maybe a flux problem... if all fails try running a heat gun around the cpu/gpu's for 5mins

...just reading your post again, I have no doubt the seller is genuine and that the DVR was actually working before shipment. The DVR has been powered-up and running 24/7 for god knows how many years, in god knows what enviroment, and then it is suddenly switched off and shipped out. It will more than likely shrivel-up like a sundried tomato and cause the flux around the gpu/cpu's to be intermittent.

I learnt my lesson years ago, I only ever buy 2nd hand equipment from somebody trustworthy that I know who installed it or something I installed myself and hasn't been *ed with for some reason or another.

I hope you paid little for this and I hope it resurrects back from the dead for you!

G'luck.

Prices seem a little steep(compared to the EU) for no-brand DVR's.

I like the idea of the covert cam sunglasses though!!!

i'm with you soundy, decent blc needed here...

unless you move the cam to the opposite side so light is behind you, then you're getting their mugshots as they turn around and leave.

ok thanks soundy.

basically, a company has a seperate depot 80miles away from hq. they currently watch the cams installed at the depot in live view using the vpn back at hq...

they had a break-in and watched in awe as the intruders helped themselves to several thousands of euro worth of stock before gardai got there.

on burning the footage to disc they realised that the nvr hadn't been recording due to a hdd error. they approached me and asked if it was possible to record the cams at the depot and record at hq in case this kind of mishap was to unfortunately happen again.

i understand what bandwidth is but knowing what the bandwidth is on the vpn is a little over my bandwidth! they have a dedicated IT guy there so i'll ask him.

...am i right in thinking that if bandwidth was a problem certain cams could be omitted allowing the necessary cams images to 'flow freely'??

This is something I have to do often!

A good plan of attack can save blood, sweat and tears later, so knock on walls, peel back carpets, take up floorboards, do what you have to do! I've spent hours scratching my head, wandering how I'm going to completely hide cables, sometimes you just have to face that it's not possible. Hiding cable runs is an art in itself!

A long 8mm drillbit... a slight incision here, keyhole surgery there... a good set of cable rods... a tub of ready mixed filler... and a bit of luck!

A BBV CTI/1 interface is what you need Rich, RS485 in - coaxtele out. *5m minimum cable distance, read manual*

I couldn't tell you how much they are as I've never needed to buy one. There's a couple of BBV teleboards on Ebay but £150+.

Best of luck in your search.

the ir range of these cams according to the spec is 98ft, now i know for a fact that's bull, 8 to 9ft maybe!

the best and cheapest thing you can do here v.lam is zoom either/or both external cams right in so you're getting a closer view of the vehicles, you want to get yourself a decent 40m wide angle ir lamp. dont ask me the price of these im on the other side of the planet!

g'luck.

Back to reality guys!

I have one of these;

Colour LCD monitor

5.6” TFT display

12v DC rechargeable Li-battery

Battery charger

Carry case

Test leads

the battery life is shocking, again, claims to have 4-5hrs working time - not true, has about 1-2hrs working time after a full charge, not just mine neither. it's charging more than it's actual working!

i also have one of these;

Colour LCD monitor

2.5" TFT display

Supports Pan; Tilt and Zoom functions

Adjust lens aperture

Call or store camera presets

Test CAT-5 continuity

Battery charger

2 sets of batteries

Carry case

now this battery lasts ages, i charge it once every fortnight if that, handy ptz function with plenty of protocols. not the best for fine tweaking of focus but it's worth its weight in gold. i recommend one of these, it wont break the bank neither.

i also used to have(before it grew legs and ran away) a 12vdc 12" bnc input monitor, there's room in the back, if you take out the transformer, for a 12v battery, only needed charging once a month. i used to leave it at the bottom of the ladders with a long patch lead, i think of everything me!!

has anyone tested one of these focus meters??

i am also gonna raise you soundy, im saving up for one of these!!