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brandontrjn

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  1. Monster cable products are good. If you use gold connectors, you will have a better outcome as well.
  2. The problem is not with the cable. If the problem was with the cable, you would most likely have constant interferrence. You will want to look at your television! I forget the technical name for it but there is a screen roll feature. Older televisions had this problem if you think back to your younger days. It used to be a knob on the television to adjust it to the signal. You will want to look into solving this problem rather than a cable problem. BTW over 600 ft of un-shielded cable and you still get a decent picture...your lucky for that
  3. brandontrjn

    Wireless/solar camera system

    You can find many solutions by googling "solar power"
  4. brandontrjn

    Wireless CCTV in a hospital - RFI?

    There was concern some time ago (1990's) about television HD broadcasts interferring with hospital equipment. If I recall, the federal government required all hospitals to move their equipment from these frequencies. There are many types of hospital equipment that operate on digital frequencies. You will not want to use a digital frequency to broadcast a camera.
  5. You need a router capable of PoE supply. Type "PoE router" into google. You will also want to use a camera capable of PoE. If you try to rig something up, you could damage your router or computer.
  6. If you ran the power along with the 300 ft of cable, the problem may be caused there as posted above. Does the ground cable leading from the breaker box enter the ground near the burried cable? Do you have electronic equipment over the burried wire? I don't want to stray too far from your "caused by power source" diagnoses. This shoud be easily figured out by turning off breakers (all the power) except to the breaker the camera is on until the interference goes away. Your problem may also be magnetic. A speaker near the cable could cause interference as well.
  7. brandontrjn

    Low Lux Camera

    This question is difficult to answer. If you are looking for suggestions on what camera you need give us some of your requirements.
  8. This sounds like a fairly simple setup. Get any outdoor camera with the resolution you require (it sounds like cameras with normal resolution will work well for you). Storage isn't a problem for you so you could go to a higher resolution camera with no problem. You will want a camera with 0 LUX capability as well most cameras with IR emitters have the ability to view images at extremely low light levels. DONT set it to 1 frame per 10 seconds. Set it to 3 to 5 fps. Someone could run across your property in a few seconds and again, you said storage isn't a problem
  9. Are these cameras looking directly at the radiation source? If not, you should purchase a camera encased in a preferrably steel casing but aluminum will help as well. Then figure the amount of radiation and where the source is. Purchase either a steel plate (1/2 inch should be sufficient) or even a lead plate and place it between the camera and the radiation source. This should stop any normal harmful radiation from reaching the electronics of the camera. Gamma rays will go through almost anything so if you that's the type of radiation this solution will not work. many types of radiation in low amounts will not harm electronics but instead may have the effect of distorting or blurring an image. If radiation is hitting the CCD element of the camera you may have this problem. Microwave radiation is probably the easiest to defend against. Simply purchase a cheap microwave, remove the door and place it between the camera and the radiation source. Microwaves will reflect so be careful with this solution.
  10. Find an outdoor camera with 0 LUX capability. If you have any ambient light--street lights etc...-- this should provide a clear enough picture for you to use. In your doorway you will want a camera with 0 LUX capability and IR emitters. I doubt you will need much more than a standard resolution video as the subject will be relatively close. Make sure your cameras will be close enough to your wireless router to provide an adequite signal. You don't want them more than 20 feet away I would suspect even though cameras say "300 foot wireless range" this is only in optimal conditions and in line-of-sight. Otherwise you'll find yourself buying Wireless Access Points to put near the cameras.
  11. Sorry for the multiple post. You should be aware that you are most likely not looking for a "night vision" camera. This would indicate a camera with light amplification technology, you probably don't need this.
  12. You can use your solution. Another solution is to look for an IP security camera with 0 LUX viewing capability (able to see at night in very low light). Most cameras with IR night lighting including the one you have listed advertise a 0 LUX capability. The IR is used for TOTAL DARKNESS. However you may find that by supplying even a small amount of light in this hallway that you can see much farther and clearer than with the IR alone. The 0 LUX capability takes advantage of any available light plus the IR to produce an image. You may find that with light from an "EXIT" sign or something that the camera sees as good as if it were day (probably will be Black and White though). If you get a 0 LUX camera and have a small light source in the area of the camera, you should not have a problem. I know your post was not mainly concerned with light but that seems to be the only sticking point with the setup you described.
  13. To answer your question. Digital signals such as 802.11 G are virtually imune to this type of interference issue. A digital signal will instead show pixelation, show reduced framerate or more comonly start and stop suddenly (this happens with HDtv's as well). If you experience this type of problem with a digital camera, it is most likely due to an analog link in the chain the signal follows, such as the wire connecting the wireless receiver to the CPU or viewing source.
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