kaysadeya

See? These are the types of details we need to know *before* investing in these cameras.

As for the filter switching mechanism, you'd think they'd include some sort of logic that says "once you switch from color to B&W, or vice versa, disable the switching mechanism for 10 minutes."

So what's the trick to keep spiders from turning your camera housing into a deluxe condo, complete with heater and picture-frame window? A spider has taken up residence between the lens and housing window in a camera I installed just a few weeks ago. I really can't blame him. I'd do exactly the same thing if I were a spider.

So the question is how do you make the circumstances less attractive? I'm thinking that sprays have too short a life and might goo up the glass and powders are out of the question for obvious reasons. Maybe some sort of sticky paper, like flypaper?

Anyway, most of you have probably figured this out already, so please advise.

Rory, thanks for the manual (no I didn't have it).

You could always use Sennetech to convert from one manufacturers code to another (e.g. Kalatel to VCL).

 

http://www.sennetech.net/

Thanks for the link. However, they don't list any prices. What do these converters typically cost?

As part of an one-going Mad Science Experiment, I bought a used Kalatel/Digiplex KTD-125A PTZ Receiver on Ebay with the hope of getting it to work with my Kodicom KSR 516. As I had feared, my initial tests indicate that this DVR doesn't appear to support the RS-422 protocol used by this receiver.

There are multiple variables involved, so I need to address these questions:

Does the RS-422 decoder work? There are manual switches for checking the various PTZ operations and all of these test fine on my rusty Pelco PT unit and zoom lens. However, there is still a question on the operation of the decoder portion of the receiver. Does anyone know how to test this?

Do I have the DVR configured correctly? The porocedures for setting up and using the PTZ operations are not very clear in the manual, so I'm not sure I've done everything correctly.

But the biggest question is: Does the DVR support the correct protocol to communicate with this recevier. The DVR appears to support the following PTZ units:

These are listed in the manual:

KODICOM KRE-301 RX

UNIMO KRX-3200 RX

UNIMO KRX-2101 RX

NIKO NK-97 SD

SAMSUNG SPD-1600 SD

SAMSUNG SCC-641

PANASONIC WV-CS854

DONG-YANG DRX-501A

SUNG-JIN CCR-20G RX

PELCO PELCO-D SD

PELCO C1489M-D SD

HONEYWELL GC-755

PHILIPS LTC SD

TOA (CBC) C-CC554 SD

I also found these in the setup menu on the DVR (I don't know the brand names):

ITA_MPC1

Vision 360_v1

Fastrax SD

SCC-931T

DSC-230

Sensormatic SD

HD-0670

Commax RX

DY-255RXB

DY-SPS360DSD

CRX-1401 RX

CRD-J6416

Yaan SD

Does anyone know if the PTZ protocol used by any of these units are the same or similar to that used by the Kalatel/Digiplex KTD-125A? If not, is there are way to locate the code for the receiver and is there a way to input it into the DVR?

I'm not clear on your question. Does your DVR accept IR input from a remote?

Sounds like a very good start, for your first camera. One other feature to consider for an outdoor camera is an auto-iris lens. With an AI lens, you'll get better images as the light shifts throughout the day.

Here are some day and night shots of a driveway entrance from the Samsung 721 with a 16mm 1/2" lens. The distance is about 100' and the IR illumination is from an Extreme UF500 (one Big Bad Boy). (Unfortunately, the day image shown here doesn't accurately capture the color, which is much more vivid.)

What IR unit did you use on '3 Pool'?

I think everyone'll be impressed by my extreme UF500 / Samsung 721 shots. If I can capture them to post here (hint, hint..),

*Squint*

So what's the decal say on the rear window? With the lighting, I can't tell..

But, seriously.. I'm loving my UF500 more and more!

My first impression on the Vitek is: underwhelmed. I expected much more punch. The strength is a bit better than the WizKid WZ12L units, which are about $50 less, but that's about it. I have to play around more with locations, so nothing conclusive yet.

Yes, that's the stuff..

Just waiting for dark But it's also raining

These are halogen units -- similar in design to the UF100/500s.

Yes, I was considering a couple UF100 units, but when you add the cost of the power supply and replacement bulbs, they aren't as cost-effective as the Vitek, which you can just plug into the wall and uses standard bulbs.

Caveat: I haven't yet actually seen the results of the Viteks, so can't report on the results.

Thanks for the info re cameras with IR built in, scratch that idea... now to find a suitable camera and separate IR device....

 

Has anyone got any recommendations of stuff available in uk, please ?

I don't know what's available in the UK, but you have lots of options for cameras. Probably for your purposes simple bullet cameras will do. If B&W cameras will do, you have lots of choices. However, if you want to use IR illuminators with color cameras, you'll have to be very careful to chose a camera *without* an IR filter. I even have one B&W board camera that must have an IR filter because it can't see IR-illuminated areas. You might also consider going on Ebay and checking out some used B&W cameras. I've seen a number of people in the UK selling them there. I've had very good luck with the surplus CCTV gear I've bought on Ebay.

As for illuminators, your choices are either LED-based or halogen-based. If the area you need to illuminate is no more than 40 feet, you can probably get away with LED illuminators, which are less expensive and draw less power. Lot's of brand choices also. If you need to illuminate further, you'll probably need to step up to a halogen-based unit. Here in the states these units start at around $200 (e.g., a Vitek VT-IR1-110). Rory will tell you that Extreme illuminators are the best, but they're also very expensive and are probably overkill for most residential uses. For example, I have a 30-deg UF500 I've been playing with. It's great for illuminating an area about 90 feet away, but way overkill for anything closer. I just bought a few Vitek VT-IR1-110 illuminators for more medium-range use. I'll be experimenting with these units this week/weekend and will report the results.

Yes, it seems a bit expensive. But I guess if you're wearing coke bottles (like me ) and you're also a pro trying to focus dozens of cameras a day in precarious locations, it may be worth the money.

Fry's is great...just don't ask thier sales staff anything.

Yes, I know what you mean. On top of that, I've noticed over the last few years (after the dot-com bust) that they've been shifting their stock away from the "esoteric" electronics stuff on which they built their name in favor of more main-stream consumer stuff that you can buy anywhere. For example, yesterday I went looking for some odd DIN connectors and 75% of their display was empty! It was really depressing ...

yeah I forget what thats like sometimes ..!!

 

all i can get to eat after 5pm is fried chicken or a gas station hot dog!...

 

Ah, paradise. Well... we're in the middle of a major hail storm here. Weird.

While on the topic of the weather: We had a tornado in South SF today. Reportedly ripped through a number of structures and was caught on video.

Right. Emailed the main manual. Thanks for your help!

Rory,

Emailed manual. I've already sent email to Jason and his tech guy and hope to get some help tomorrow. Like I said in my email to you, I thought I saw something of interest at the end of the manual. Too tired now to make use of any new information, so will be trying again tomorrow evening.

Good tips. I can ping the DVR from a CMD prompt on my PC, but can't telnet (because I'm not clear on the username and password settings) or connect via a browser by entering the IP address.

Kodicom has a client app to connect to the DVR. The doc ..well sucks.. and there's really nothing helpful there for anyone but a network jock.