kaysadeya
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Posts posted by kaysadeya
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Adjust what? Recall that I can't find a manual on this thing. If you have a pointer to a manual, please let me know.
After moving the UF500 to the front yard, the result is that some shrubs in the foreground wash out the subject area, which is about 40 feet beyond. However, my current view is via a B&W wide angle and I'm working on upgrading the cameras to day/night telephotos for a tighter view of the street; so the story with this unit is still unfolding.
In any event, this unit is one industrial-strength big bad boy!
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Right. So you can see that a 30-deg unit at 50' or so, produces a pattern that is very narrow and way too bright in the middle for any practical use at that distance. As part of my on-going experiment, I moved the UF500 to my front yard to illuminate a driveway entrance approximately 90' away. Still not dark yet here in CA, but the results should be interesting...
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Here's an interesting comparision:
Samsung 721 vs. Toshiba IK-64DNA
http://www.samsungtechwin.com/upload_file/product/35/17354.cata.pdf
http://www.toshiba.com/taisisd/security/products/cameras/images/IK64DNA.pdf
Their specs are very similar. Unless I'm missing something, the Toshiba looks like a screaming bargain. Does anyone have experience with both these cameras?
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I don't see anything in the 520 specs to indicate it has an ICR (Infrared Cut Filter Removable) feature. This feature appears to be available only on the 721. Can someone confirm this?
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Wazn't a typo: "periphery" 1 : the perimeter of a circle or other closed curve; also : the perimeter of a polygon
But selected a more middle-of-the-road term... No offense.
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Yes, I've long studied the beam patterns. What's not-so-clear is the camera-exposure factor. If the center is too bright, you're going to get so much less on the perimeter.
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Thanks Rory,
Regarding the UF500, as far as I can tell so far, the photocell is working as I would have set it.
My big challenge at this point is making the best use of the 30-deg illumination in the confines of my 120x70 -foot (or so) backyard. I might be able to make more practical use of this bad-boy in the front yard. However, if I were to start over, I'd go with two UF100 60-deg units for the backyard.
Lesson learned: When selecting IR illuminators, the spread spec is more important than the power spec.
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Got it. But the idea is to maximize the life of the Wiz units and, in the case of the UF500, save enery. (I could heat a room with the heat it puts out.)
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SammieT, how far away from the camera was the subject?
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I'm looking for the best day/night camera I can get for under $400 that has or can accept a 30mm+ AI lens. (If lens is included, I'll consider a higher price.)
So far, I'm "focused" on the Bosch LTC0495/20, but am still very open to any alternatives. Any suggestions?
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Thanks, but I'm a minority non-dealer. Can anyone provide a price?
(PM me, if it's classified).
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So where can one pick up a 721? I can't find many (read zero) sellers for this camera.
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By the way, for anyone considering WizKid WZ12 units, be forewarned that you have to remove the circuit board from the unit to adjust the photocell sensitivity or the light output volume.
The problem is that the board is held in place by two screws that go through two brass spacers that hold the back of the board proud of the mounting platform. It's nearly impossible to place the spacers back into place behind the circuit board. This is something they don't mention in the instructions.
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When you say sensitivity, do you mean when they come on and off?Yes.
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Thanks Rory.
Another question: How do you adjust the sensitivity of the photocell on the UF500 power supply?
BTW, the power supply is one serious piece of hardware! What the heck is that big heavy round thing for? My best guess is it's some sort of miniture particle accelerator for smashing atoms.
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Welcome Bill.
I'm still learning here, but one important point is that the "best picture" is not strictly a function of camera resolution. Lighting, lenses, camera quality, and camera settings also play a big role. Your best bet is to use the members of this forum as a sound board before investing in any camera.
I'm also in the process of installing a CCTV installation for my home. I spent a great deal of time researching the PC-based vs. dedicated DVR question. After a lot of research, I settled on a dedicated Kodicom DVR. You can read the other threads, but the bottom line is that my existing PC wasn't "powerful" enough to host a GeoVision card. There are also some "hidden" costs for a PC-based system, such the need for a separate card for realtime monitoring.
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Rory,
Since you've had a lot of experience with Extreme IR Illuminators, I hope you can help with a question. I picked up a used UF500 illuminator. Works great, but that bad-boy *really* heats up! How hot should these units get? Mine gets almost too hot to touch. Also, do you know where I can download an instruction manual? Extreme doesn't appear to have manuals available on their website.
On a related topic, I also received two WizKid WZ12s. While they're no way as strong as the UF500, they work fine for up to about 50 feet. My only complaint is that there doesn't appear to be a way to change the bulb, if they even have one. So I guess you just throw away these units when the burn out.
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Do any of you Bosch people know if the LTC146 series domes have an IR filter? I'm getting serious about investing in a couple of these cams, but they need to work in conjunction with IR illuminators.
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It's ok with me, but I'm just here to trade information.
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Why is the identity of this camera being kept secret? I thought the purpose of this forum was to share information.
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Ok, thanks. I can find a number of cheap hardwired controllers on ebay. Bought a Pelco MLZ6DT I'm waiting to be delivered. From the looks of the wiring diagrams for the controller and zoom lenses, it looks like there won't be any problems. However, my ultimate goal is to be able to control the zooms by means of the DVR remote control from any monitor in the house. I might be able to use the alarm outputs as Rory suggested, but I don't think that would match up with the PTZ controls on the menu. An option might be to remap the PTZ controls to the alarm outputs, but I haven't had the time to dig that deep.
There's a lot of information out there on RS-422 and RS-485, but most of it is focused on manipulating digits rather than switching current. Seems like a simple enough task technically; but you wouldn't know that from the prices the CCTV manufacturers charge for their special-branded RS-422 hardware. Either I'm underestimating the challenge or the RS-422 control units are a great profit center for the manufacturers.
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Man, I got digital cable, so I have the DVR service, I just set the damm thing to record my shows and watch them when I get home.Why the hell make my life difficult, when 9.99 a month extra makes my life easy?
Yes, from Comcast you can get a HD DVR for $10 more per month. Pretty sweet deal for HD freaks, when you consider the only HD DVR alternative is buying a DTV box for around $1000.
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If the camera has a back-light compensation (BLC) switch, set it to ON.
4-pin AI lens connectors
in Installation Help and Accessories
Posted
Anyone know of a good place to get some 4-pin AI lens connectors? I have some older video iris zooms I need to adapt to the newer 4-pin sockets on my cameras.
The only place I've been able to locate them is spytown:
http://www.spytown.com//4pindinautir.html
Does anyone else carry these connectors?