wisp_engineer

Foam rod and caulk could work. Usually for holes in wood siding and what not we just use paintable caulk. Be sure it is paintable otherwise the paint won't adhere to it should the homeowner decide to paint it.

Like C7 said though, using an outdoor rated outlet box with a gasketed cover is the way to do it. You can even install a gland nut on the knockout where you run the cable through to make sure it is sealed tight.

Thanks for the reply.

I really like the DVR for the same reason you do. My customer needs the audio recording at two of his four sites, and he doesn't want local screens attached to the DVR's so network managable units is a must. There is also the requirement of viewing/listening to one of the sites using cam/mic combinations over the network, and this dvr seems like it fits that bill perfectly.

I can't see any reason to choose anyone else for a DVR when it comes down to price and warranty.

I'm looking at the Sanyo DSR2004. Does anyone have any input on this model as to if they like it or hate it? How about similar models?

I'd like to get something that is fairly straight forward on programming, network connectivity with a client that is straight forward for the end user to copy off events to dvd or cd, option to scale to 1TB storage, 2-4 audio inputs, up to D1 res would be nice.

MPEG4 compression is ok I think for this application.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a 16-channel DVR from any of the major manufacturers? If I call my distributor they obviously are going to try and push the Honeywell stuff (which is not nessisarily bad but yeah) so I am curious as to what else I should look at. Some of the DVR systems from Sanyo and Samsung GVI look nice but I have no experience with those.

Does anyone have any generic video footage of 330 vs 470 vs 520+ TVL's ?

I have a customer who is asking if they can see a comparison between the varying tvl's.

You could run a conduit into the building, but what for? Just drill a hole, mount the box, and seal around it with caulk.

Well thats my question. It seems more professional to me to put in a chase rather than just drill a hole.

Cool thanks!

As for running through the wall itself, am I on the right track? I think it'd be appropriate to install a wire chase instead of just drilling a hole to accomodate the wire into the outdoor weatherproof box. Am I correct in that thinking?

Hey! It's been a while since I've been here.

I need to install an outdoor box camera housing where there is an EMT chase from the inside of the building to the outside. I know I've seen installs where they do this and have some liquidtight flex from the end of the EMT outside of the building, to the camera housing.

My question is what size of liquidtight fittings do you use on the bottom of the camera housing? I think I just pick the fitting that fits the actual liquidtight flex (3/8" is what I am thnking) and roll from there. Is that correct?

Bump.... anyone have ANY input? I have not put it in for a test yet. I've been all over the place fixing things... lol

So I have acquired an Ikegami WDR dome camera from the area rep as a demo.

Anything in particular I should look at when evaluating this?

Actually a directional is better for ANY solution where you must communicate between just two devices..... Period. There are times for omni-directional

antennas and the OP's situation is not one.

I work on multi-city-wide wireless networks every day. I install and troubleshoot point-to-point and point-to-multipoint networks as well. I have a firm grasp on where power amps should and should not be used. I think I know when/where various types of antennas should be used.

This is a situation where it could possibly cause harm to the existing 2.4GHz spectrum as well as the OP's system.

CCTV_Solutions what was your outcome?

I use DDWRT on WRT54GL's and older pre-v5 models.

I like it for the expanded functionality. It also is more reliable than the OEM firmware, although a 54GL running OEM firmware is pretty reliable. I think it is due to the amount of RAM on the router board compared to the latest 54G's.

While that booster might appear to be better, and it may or may not help it will for sure pollute the RF spectrum. This makes it more difficult for others to use the spectrum efficiently.

Higher gain directionals would solve the issue, and keep the spectrum usable should the OP need to install additional cameras, or should someone else might need to put some other WIFI on the air.

The "big hammer" approach to RF should never be used unless you know exactly what you are doing and completely comprehend the potential issues it can cause.

How is everything going? Any updates?

The main building (clubhouse) is where their existing DVR is. I was thinking of putting the camera on this building. There is a small center island at the entrance/exit that has some decorative trees and bushes and what not. I could put it there but it'd be possibly difficut to trench out the cable.

I was thinking just on the building, and zoomed towards the entrance.

I'm looking at putting a camera in to watch the entrance/exit of a subdivision. The customer was thinking LPR would be nice but the price tag for that is too much for them to eat. They now would just like to see type of vehicle and time of day it passed by.

There is zero illumination at this entrance. I'm probably going to have to say put in some illumination or quote an IR illuminator.

Nighttime views are important so this system must be able to deal with headlights/taillights blinding the camera.

The camera distance to the choke point is about 200 feet or so, and 40 feet wide. I think 5-50mm VF lens is good.

I know from reading things and common sense, that a high shutter rate on the camera is required as well as best compression and everything like that, on the DVR to be able to deal with the high-speed vehicles.

Should I use a WDR or TDN for this job? How about trying to overcome the problem of blindness due to bright vehicle lights?

Thanks Rory, I will dig up the information today on the Samsungs.

What all is involved when it comes to programming the WDR cams? I take it that they are not as simple to install?

Well that sums it up. The Bosch is only 190 dollars more than the GE....

I think it is beans, considering the house is $500K....

I am looking at using WDR's because of the huge picture windows in the rooms I am looking over. The camera is going in the kitchen in a corner. There is a large picture window that has a lot of light coming in.... The camera must be able to look at the kitchen appliances, as well as see what is coming in and out of the front door which is 50 feet away. In the front room (where the front door is) there are large picture windows on the front of the house and the back of the house where the light comes in.

I guess I could say I am not 100% sure as to when to specify a WDR camera, except that I know they are needed in areas where bright sunlight can enter the FOV that one needs to look at.

Check your private messages too.....

You'll change the radiation pattern if you try and shield the antennas from interference. This may or may not be good. You could skew it all messy, and add in reflections which would cause serious problems.

Get some external antennas on those radios if you at all can. 100 feet pure LOS to the eye and to the radio should be cake with some directionals. I've got some 30 mile 2.4GHz links that have run for years that distribute internet to far-off locations. Keep in mind that these use directional antennas (big antennas, not yagi antennas) and special 2.4GHz radios. 100 feet is nothing.....

I'd like to see some pictures so that I can suggest exactly how to proceed with the install.

Hey all, I am looking at using a WDR camera for the inside of a house. I'd like to know everyones opinion about the Bosch Flexidome WDR's and the GE Ultraview WDR's. The GE's are less expensive than the Bosch, but I do not think there is going to be any quality issues there, is that correct?

OP, you said you ran 120 feet of coax to the radio is that right? This is RG59 for the video, not for the RF link right?

Those antennas are quality antennas for the price. I think they would even outperform the antennas that you are looking at ordering, but that is hard to say.

Just what ever you do, do not add amplifiers.

Nice find Scorpion. These are awesome too, especially at their price point. Anyone using 802.11b/g equipment should invest in one if they cannot afford the price for a regular analyzer.

http://www.metageek.net/

If you can use IP cameras, Blackbox and other manufacturers make media converters. I've used blackbox converters for copper to fiber to copper ethernet conversion. They work great, and they are backed with a super warrenty.

Otherwise, I see in my ADI catalog (yea yea yea, don't give me any crap ) that they have a few products made by IFS for GE that would work.