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For Christmas I would like an answer to YA camera question

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Greetings all,

 

A church for whom I work as a sysadmin/netadmin recently had two cameras fail[1]. They are in "how can we cut costs so we don't have to lay off as many people" mode, so hiring a true professional is not an option. The system was originally installed by a locksmith who is no longer available. Nonetheless, they want to replace the failed cameras. Since I am responsible for anything more technical than a candle, replacing them has fallen to me.

 

The cameras are this model (installation manual.) I suspect they failed from overheating. They were very warm to the touch when I took them down.

 

The DVR is a NetPromax 16 channel DVR that is several years old.

 

The power supply claims to be 24V DC. The camera claims to be 12V DC. As soon as I can borrow a meter I will get the actual voltage.

 

Can someone recommend a camera, preferably a dome, that is a good deal? We are looking for decent picture for not a lot of money. Considering the DVR, very high resolution is not necessary. There is plenty of room at the DVR and power supply location. Installing a couple more power supplies would not be a problem. I would prefer to buy from someone who is active here. I have learned a lot by reading old threads.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dan

 

[1] It appalls me that people steal from a church, but it happens with some regularity.

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Are you sure the power supply output is 24VDC? If that is the case, no wonder the cameras are burning up. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at a camera. Most cameras will accept +/- 10%, so a camera rated at 12VDC should be fed a maximum of 13.2VDC.

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Are you sure the power supply output is 24VDC? If that is the case, no wonder the cameras are burning up. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at a camera. Most cameras will accept +/- 10%, so a camera rated at 12VDC should be fed a maximum of 13.2VDC.

 

It is labeled 24V DC. I found it hard to believe too.

 

Multimeters are not part of my normal kit. I as soon as I can borrow one I will report the actual voltage.

 

Dan

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Greetings all,

The power supply claims to be 24V DC. The camera claims to be 12V DC. As soon as I can borrow a meter I will get the actual voltage.

 

14.9 V DC at the more easily accessible camera.

 

I am open to a camera that comes with its own power supply. It would be easy to mount new ones alongside the old one.

 

TIA,

 

Dan

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No love?

 

I forgot to mention. These cameras are in an office area. They have caught the people who help themselves to purses and laptops.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dan

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Dan,

Did they ever move the cameras at some point? Typically if an installer used a 24VDC output power supply it was because the wire run is so long that by the time they get to the camera it's close to 12VDC.

 

Let's see, you need an inexpensive camera it sounds like. They are everywhere now-a-days. From the 30 dollar special (retail) at Harbour Freight to the Ebay specials there are plenty to choose from. Even companies like Security Camera Direct will have more than a handful of cameras that cost less than a steak dinner.

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The cameras are where they have always been. They were installed by a locksmith, not a CCTV guy. I would not bet on them having been installed correctly. It was a rush job in response to a significant break-in.

 

The choice of cameras is overwhelming to me; that is part of the problem. I want good quality, but not too expensive. (But who doesn't?)

 

I am confused by some of the advice. For instance, I am told to stay away from cameras that have IR emitters near the lens (too much glare,) but the VND49IR is recommended.

 

I don't think extra illumination will be necessary. Generally the people who have been stealing do it while the office lights are on. I think there was only one guy who lifted a laptop without turning on the lights.

 

Any suggestion for a Vari-Focal Auto-Iris, 1/3" (or so) CCD, Color Dome Camera that will take 12V DC? Or is that not what I should get?

 

We were hoping to stay around $150, give or take as much as is necessary. Under $100 would be great. Over $200 is doable, but with layoffs around the corner we are squeezing every penny until it squeals.

 

The lens on the previous cameras is marked "3-6mm 1/4""

 

Dan

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That's the tricky part, finding a good value and good quality at the same time. If you get one with IR's, you can always modify it to work. You can isolate the lens from the IR's with something as simple as cardboard if you are using them indoors. Or, just go black and white for a better low light capability. There's just so much out there in that price range, (that I typically stay out of) that you'll have to try out and see what works for you.

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Multimeters are not part of my normal kit. I as soon as I can borrow one I will report the actual voltage.

 

Dan

 

As an aside, multimeters can be had for as low as $10, depending on where you live and what sort of stores/supply houses are in the area. Even at regular retail stores, you shouldn't have to pay over $20. There's no excuse not to just own one of your own

 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100013868&N=10000003+90401+502726

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Multimeters are not part of my normal kit. I as soon as I can borrow one I will report the actual voltage.

 

Dan

 

As an aside, multimeters can be had for as low as $10, depending on where you live and what sort of stores/supply houses are in the area. Even at regular retail stores, you shouldn't have to pay over $20. There's no excuse not to just own one of your own

 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100013868&N=10000003+90401+502726

 

I know. I just have too much kit already, I don't add anything unless I have to. I loaned mine to someone who used the ohm meter on a hot (120V) circuit.

 

If I ever need one I will buy one, but for now it is easier to borrow.

 

You have an opinion on the best cheap ($150ish) camera?

 

Dan

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