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Maniek

AXIS cameras - no problems?

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Hi everyone

I read forum a lot and I haven't found many AXIS cameras topics.

I just wonder why?.

Are they good? no problems with support?, very good picture quality?, good night time view? etc.

I have been on practical training with AXIS and I think AXIS M and P hd series cameras are pretty good. To be honest I have never installed one.

I do IQEyes ( Regards for FEN_FAN , Vivotek's and Acti. Sometimes SANYO and Areconts.

I tried few brands to find best solution.

What is your opinion about AXIS.

Screenshots welcomed.

 

Regards

Mariusz

Poland

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Axis makes quality products. Low-light performance is typically not that great.

 

Best,

Christopher

 

Axis makes solid, reliable hardware. You can find better brands out there for certain specific applications, and some up-and-comers who are a little cheaper, but for a middle-of-the-road IP camera that almost always works (and doesn't always require Internet Explorer) it's hard to beat Axis.

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I just installed 17 of them myself. Nice solid cameras. Megapixel decent quality.

 

As for low light? All depends on what camera you buy. Cheapest dome isn't going to perform right when its installed in the wrong area.

 

Tom

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As for low light? All depends on what camera you buy. Cheapest dome isn't going to perform right when its installed in the wrong area.

 

OK, assume money is not an object. Which Axis do you recommend for low light? And no, you can't pick a thermal.

 

Best,

Christopher

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Try AXIS Q1755! Take a look at the YouTube video:

 

Have you tried it yourself? Have you reviewed the specifications? B&W is 0.2 lux. Do you know the shutter speed used for that 0.2 lux? Axis lux ratings are so poor, they never specify the shutter speed. In some models, they were using a 2 second DSS for their lux specs. A couple years ago I called Axis and discussed the lack of shutter speed in their specifications. They said they were implementing a new lux rating scheme, and all future cameras would be specified with no slower than 1/6 second shutter speed. So, let's assume the Q1755 specifications is 0.2 lux at 1/6 second. That's 1.0 lux at 1/30 second. Do you think that's good low light performance?

 

Best,

Christopher

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So, let's assume the Q1755 specifications is 0.2 lux at 1/6 second. That's 1.0 lux at 1/30 second. Do you think that's good low light performance?

 

I have to concur with this. I have a P3344VE and it delivers clear pictures at night as long as nothing is moving. If a car drives by, the motion blur is so bad that you can't even tell what kind of car it is, even though I'm at the end of a cul-de-sac and the cars are never moving more than 10 - 15 MPH tops as they pass by.

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I also have a P3344 which is not terrible at night, I do not get the cars blurring. HOA requires everyone to leave on the post light in front of the house though which helps. It's happier with a certain amount of light though, tends to lose contrast otherwise and hard to make out facial details. I keep mine set to 1/30s min.

 

Here is a pic of a P1344 megapixel f1.0 (temporary shot of the side yard, which gets a little light from the front of the houses) vs. an old Bosch f1.0. Both of these are through a glass window. Min shutter speed set to 1/60s for the P1344.

 

Bosch: LTC0355 0.09 lux 50 IRE F1.2

Axis P1344: B/W: 0.05 lux, F1.2 (no IRE mentioned)

 

In the backyard I have a P1344 also, which gets plenty of light from a flood and gives a nice picture.

P1344f1.0.jpg.949b2901191730c3666e32c73a53fbce.jpg

bosch0355f1.0.jpg.b4c42bfeb047fd21cdec1a7b5a5e92c0.jpg

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Try AXIS Q1755! Take a look at the YouTube video:

 

 

i wouldn't recommend the Q1755 for anything low light. I have on for my Main stage here and its horrible.

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I also have a P3344 which is not terrible at night, I do not get the cars blurring.

 

Well I sure do.

 

This is a scene without motion:

 

 

 

This is the same scene with a car going by:

 

 

 

This is with the default settings. If I set the camera to favor motion with a minimum shutter speed of 1/30 second, the picture gets a lot noisier with no real reduction in the motion blur.

006-capture.thumb.jpg.9f4f1b6d7a8da4718d7a55a2ad14b172.jpg

2167-capture.thumb.jpg.07163e8eaf9e3bdcd895b16227134d71.jpg

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Well I sure do.

 

Here is the paper delivery (not for us) this morning probably about 15mph (cropped screen shot) off Vitamin D. I am pretty much zoomed out on the 3.3-12mm, set at 1/30s.

 

Is your scene completely dark maybe? We have pole lights on each house required to be on by the HOA. Motion lights that far out tend to annoy, I wonder if something like a CNB MIR1000 or 3000 would help? I have not tried them but there are some examples on the forum.

 

The night performance of our system has been the hardest, even with the analog cameras (CNB, Bosch, etc). I finally came to the conclusion after a lot of testing that we'd need a fair amount of light no matter how good the camera was. I am a hobbyist, the pros here could probably weigh in. After trying a bunch of analog cameras and a lot of comparison and reading there I came to the conclusion that they are only going to get so good, and you are going to need light. Also a good lens helps, the P3344 I've since noticed is f1.4, the P1344 comes with f1.0. But even so, they all need light...

car.jpg.ed3902722f7f5ad470d0fec6821fb3e1.jpg

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Well I sure do.

 

Here is the paper delivery (not for us) this morning probably about 15mph (cropped screen shot) off Vitamin D. I am pretty much zoomed out on the 3.3-12mm, set at 1/30s.

 

Is your scene completely dark maybe?

 

There are two streetlights, one on either side just outside of the frame. However, they are up on 40-foot poles; since your coach lights are closer to the ground, they may give you more usable light.

 

I finally came to the conclusion after a lot of testing that we'd need a fair amount of light no matter how good the camera was. I am a hobbyist, the pros here could probably weigh in. After trying a bunch of analog cameras and a lot of comparison and reading there I came to the conclusion that they are only going to get so good, and you are going to need light. Also a good lens helps, the P3344 I've since noticed is f1.4, the P1344 comes with f1.0. But even so, they all need light...

 

True, although too much light can also be a problem. I have a flood light with two 90-watt halogen bulbs mounted on the wall near the camera; when it's turned on, the P3344 "hunts" between day and night modes every few seconds. Highly annoying.

 

I'm now educating myself on IR illuminators.

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Another thought is that with the input and output ports you may be able to come up with something that switches the filter. There are some settings I think you can access directly. That is beyond what I know how to do with it however.

 

Our house lights are on a timer, which is controlled by the Honeywell Vista 20P with 4204 relay cards. Some day it would be nice to control the camera settings also, like the IR filter.

 

At least it switches at a sensible light level, unlike the CNB which tried to hold color a little too long.

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