Power Supply Help

[arti 0]

Im going to install about 10 cctv for my workplace soon. I need some help in deciding how to run power

from my power supply box to the individual cameras.

 

I will be using RG59 for the video transmission and im not sure if i should use normal 18 AWG wires to transmit power

or CAT5.

 

I was thinking of using CAT 5 as power transmission so that next time in future if i have the money i could upgrade to IP cameras and do away with the RG59. That would save my time on rewiring.

 

so i would like to ask the experts here which way would you suggest i go.

 

Lastly is it better to have an individual power supply box located near to each camera. Or a centralised one.

 

Thanks.

[cglaeser 0]

I will be using RG59 for the video transmission and im not sure if i should use normal 18 AWG wires to transmit power

or CAT5.

 

FWIW, CAT5 is relatively robust when using RJ45 connectors, but 24AWG is relatively fragile when stripped. A tiny nick can result in a break, which is why many alarm installers will only use 22AWG. So, CAT5 will work, but if it were my project, I would use 18AWG (or Siamese) now and pull CAT5 later. FWIW.

 

You did not mention the size of the building or the length of the runs, but assuming modest runs, I would opt for one supply (with fuses).

 

Best,

Christopher

[survtech 0]

It's really easy to keep from nicking CAT5. Just use your fingernail(s) to strip it instead of a stripper!

[cglaeser 0]

It's really easy to keep from nicking CAT5. Just use your fingernail(s) to strip it instead of a stripper!

 

Post that suggestion on alt.security.alarms so we can all watch the fur fly.

 

Here's a simple question that illustrates where the rubber hits the road. Would you use your fingernails to strip CAT5 cable to connect smoke detectors to the master alarm panel?

 

Best,

Christopher

[Soundy 1]

I will be using RG59 for the video transmission and im not sure if i should use normal 18 AWG wires to transmit power

or CAT5.

 

FWIW, CAT5 is relatively robust when using RJ45 connectors, but 24AWG is relatively fragile when stripped. A tiny nick can result in a break, which is why many alarm installers will only use 22AWG. So, CAT5 will work, but if it were my project, I would use 18AWG (or Siamese) now and pull CAT5 later. FWIW.

 

The only thing REALLY wrong with this is the suggestion to pull the Cat5e later, especially if the site is a new or renovated construction. If the budget allows for the extra cable, and you really expect to use it later, pull the Cat5e NOW, even if you're using separate coax/power runs. New cable runs are ALWAYS a labor-intensive pain in the arse, so why duplicate the effort when you can do it all at once?

[cglaeser 0]

[pull the Cat5e NOW, even if you're using separate coax/power runs.

 

Fair enough. Good suggestion.

 

Best,

Christopher

[arti 0]

Thanks for the replies.

 

Been reading round the forums only problem with using Cat5 cables for power is the

amount of current it can withstand. To me now it seems that using separate electrical wires for power

seems to be a better choice and putting the Cat5 cable beside it for later use.

 

My vendor suggested me to put a regulator near each cameras as the centralised power supply is some

distance away. (going to check furthest distance for cable run). If it is too far i think individual power supply is the

only option.

 

So my setup would now be

 

Camera - regulator - power supply (electrical cable, RG59 and a cat5 for future use together in a conduit)

 

Is this appropriate enough or am i cheated by my vendor .

Edited January 11, 2010 by Guest

[survtech 0]

It's really easy to keep from nicking CAT5. Just use your fingernail(s) to strip it instead of a stripper!

 

Post that suggestion on alt.security.alarms so we can all watch the fur fly.

 

Here's a simple question that illustrates where the rubber hits the road. Would you use your fingernails to strip CAT5 cable to connect smoke detectors to the master alarm panel?

 

Best,

Christopher

As Sarah Palin says, "You betcha!" I have done it for years.

[cglaeser 0]

As Sarah Palin says, "You betcha!" I have done it for years.

 

You have used CAT5 for years to wire smoke detectors? Are you a licensed installer?

 

Best,

Christopher

[rory 0]

Thanks for the replies.

 

Been reading round the forums only problem with using Cat5 cables for power is the

amount of current it can withstand. To me now it seems that using separate electrical wires for power

seems to be a better choice and putting the Cat5 cable beside it for later use.

 

My vendor suggested me to put a regulator near each cameras as the centralised power supply is some

distance away. (going to check furthest distance for cable run). If it is too far i think individual power supply is the

only option.

 

So my setup would now be

 

Camera - regulator - power supply (electrical cable, RG59 and a cat5 for future use together in a conduit)

 

Is this appropriate enough or am i cheated by my vendor .

 

Hi, one thing though, dont use electrical cable ... use 18AWG cable. Better yet, RG59 Siamese Cable (w/ 18 awg power cable) Copper in and out. And yes you are correct about running power over cat5, though that also depends on the camera used and distance.

[arti 0]

ok i just went to confirm the distances for where my cameras would be.

 

They are not very far apart 10 to 50 meters apart from the power supply source. Thinking of abandoning the

Cat5 cables and using the 18AWG cables for power to be on a safe side. But now im thinking of using a power block

or adapter for each camera instead of my original plan of using the centralised power source so that

i can make use of the electrical lines. Or how far can i pull the 18AWG cables from the centralise power supply to each

camera without worrying about voltage drop.

 

Is it a alright to use the power block in the same junction box together with the RG59 cables?

Will be modifying the adapter so that i can directly input an AC current into it. <- Is this a common practise in the industry(My vendor told me to do it)?

[rory 0]

The standard is to run them all back to a distributed fused power supply.

I dont know what you mean by a power block, but if its high voltage I would keep it as far away from the cameras and their video cable as possible.

[arti 0]

oh the power block is a adapter(transformer) that comes with the camera like those used for laptops.

So i could like input a AC current into it and out comes DC for the camera.

 

If the voltage drop across my setup is not substantial then a centralised power supply would be good.

Just unsure of "correct" lengths to use.

[Soundy 1]

For a mere 50m (max), you should actually be fine with Cat5e. Doubled-up 24ga. should be fine, even feeding regulated 12VDC to an IR camera (worst case, add the brown pairs in for a little extra bulk).

 

Siamese is nice most times, but tends to be a lot pricier than something like coax + station-Z or similar, and IME it can be a PITA if you need to pull it around tight corners or through small openings.

 

Just pull a single run of Cat5, slap on some baluns, and be done with it.

[rory 0]

I wouldnt tell them to power CCTV cameras over cat5, least not without more info.

For example, trying to power EX82s with cat5 tripled up at even just 50', will not work.

In some cases with other cameras it may work, but best to do it right and not have to worry about it. IMO.

[arti 0]

ok siamese cables are not a problem. No longer than 50m of cables are required(check).

So guess will be using a centralised power supply then saves any extra work,

Guess its time to place the order.

 

Thanks all for your advice.

[Soundy 1]

Post that suggestion on alt.security.alarms so we can all watch the fur fly.

 

You just couldn't resist, could you?

[cglaeser 0]

Post that suggestion on alt.security.alarms so we can all watch the fur fly.

 

You just couldn't resist, could you?

 

LOL! Yeah, if you want to see a real smack down, drive up to a job with an aluminum ladder.

 

Best,

Christopher

[rory 0]

LOL! Yeah, if you want to see a real smack down, drive up to a job with an aluminum ladder.

 

Best,

Christopher

why they hating on my aluminum ladder? i got it free

[cglaeser 0]

why they hating on my aluminum ladder? i got it free

 

And they think it's work every penny.

 

Last week someone posted a photo of an alarm installation van in traffic with aluminum ladders on the roof. All hell broke loose. Of course, every now and then an installer makes a bid for a Darwin Award, so they do have a point.

 

I also visit the woodworking forum on occasion. Recently some guy was using a contractors tablesaw balanced on an ice chest. According to the news report, it was unknown if the surgery to reattach his hand would be successful.

 

We all take risks, some more than others.

 

Best,

Christopher

[rory 0]

why they hating on my aluminum ladder? i got it free

 

And they think it's work every penny.

 

Last week someone posted a photo of an alarm installation van in traffic with aluminum ladders on the roof. All hell broke loose. Of course, every now and then an installer makes a bid for a Darwin Award, so they do have a point.

 

I also visit the woodworking forum on occasion. Recently some guy was using a contractors tablesaw balanced on an ice chest. According to the news report, it was unknown if the surgery to reattach his hand would be successful.

 

We all take risks, some more than others.

 

Best,

Christopher

 

we take a risk just getting out of bed in the morning

[Soundy 1]

LOL! Yeah, if you want to see a real smack down, drive up to a job with an aluminum ladder.

 

Best,

Christopher

why they hating on my aluminum ladder? i got it free

 

Sad thing is, the holier-than-thou attitude over there puts this place to shame. I mean, yeah, I use aluminum ladders - both an 11' folding ladder and a 10' A-frame. I also don't work anywhere near high voltage 99% of the time. I have a 14' "Featherlite" fiberglass ladder, and lemme tell ya, "Featherlite" has gotta be a classic case of false advertising.

 

I know in that thread, they were going on about finding open electrical boxes in ceilings and such... well, my aluminum ladder will be sitting on carpet or tile or something else non-conductive... meantime, the closest grounded metal item to me when I'm up in a T-bar ceiling is the T-bar itself, which is gonna be right there whether I'm on aluminum, fiberglass or wood (personally, I prefer a wood ladder over the others).

[cglaeser 0]

I also don't work anywhere near high voltage 99% of the time.

 

If a ladder gets me, it's likely going to be a fall. I try to use an abundance of common sense, but it only takes a split second. I saw an acquaintance recently and he had a limp. Fell just short distance while painting and shattered his heal, followed by an infection. My brother owns a roofing company. Last year their most experienced roofer began to slide and made it all the way to the ground, injuring both heals. He was very lucky.

 

Best,

Christopher

[arti 0]

Its kind of hard to find siamese cables at my area zz. Its expensive to use gauge 18 cables and gauge 15 cables seems common here.

I may be able to find a higher gauge cable what is recommended 22, 23 or ? Or do i have to go for the gauge 15 ones.

 

Thanks

[jeromephone 6]

We are installing almost 100% cat 6 for data these days with the new standards for greater bandwith If I were running a spare or using baluns I would only run cat 6 some brands are 23 gauge although I don;t know if that makes any difference. As far as running cat5 for power unless it is POE it just does not seem professional when 16 or 18 gauge will work. We run a lot of 16 gauge for speaker wire,power for doors and cameras. We may be overkill on some stuff but there is a savings to only stocking one size of single pair wire.