Anchors for Hanging PSU in Cinder Block

[vmgtlexi 0]

Any suggestions on wall anchors to use to hang my new Altronix power supply? It weighs around 12 pounds.

 

It will be installed in cinder blocks! And, I like to over-engineer things with more than enough support so there will never be a problem with it coming loose.

 

In addition to anchor suggestions, should I screw it into the block itself or the mortar in between?

 

Thanks!

[Numb-nuts 1]

The mortar is weaker than the block and only very light objects should be secured to the mortar.

 

You have a couple alternatives. You can use no.12 plastic plugs with either no.10 woodscrews or carriage screws For each 10.lbs of weight you should use one screw and try not to make it more than 1/2" longer than the plug. Account for this depth when you drill your holes but don't drill much deeper than you need to.

 

Also don't under drill as the screw passing the end of the plug could fracture the block and this weakens the plug's grip. Use a light masonry drill with a hammer action drill and if you must use SDS then be gentle with it.

 

Don't use metal wall anchors unless they are sleeve types and the expanding type can fracture the block again loosening it's grip.

 

You can use smaller plugs and screws for the bottom screws as the weight is supported on the upper screws.

[Soundy 1]

[Numb-nuts 1]

Nice one.

Oh yes I forgot about those. I've seen the but never tried them. In theory they should also work well as the material in cinder blocks will compress under extreme pressure.

Not sure what weight they will support, check before you make a decision.

[Soundy 1]

Tapcons are the cat's arse. Just remember to drill deep enough, they work better with their own drill bits (standard masonry bits will work, but their own are better), and DON'T use an impact driver to put the screws in (standard cordless drill on low speed preferred).

 

Remember that once the power supply is snugged to the wall, there's very little outward force pulling on the screw -99% of the force will be downward, and if you're nice and tight, friction of the PSU against the surface will alleviate much of that as well.

[vmgtlexi 0]

Thanks.

 

I saw the Tapcons at Home Depot today. The instructions say to use a hammer drill. I don't have a hammer drill. I have a nice Ridgid drill/driver, but not a hammer drill. Sounds like in your experience my drill should be fine as long as on slow speed.

 

I bought some Tapcons anyway, along with some 77-pound rated plastic anchors with #10 screws. I got the Tapcon drill bit too.

 

My cinder blocks are hollow, I think. Seems that would provide less support for Tapcons and more support for the heavy duty plastic anchors.

 

Anyway, this box is only 12 pounds. Probably either solution will work since I'll have 4 anchor points for the box.

 

Not sure which route I'll go. Will need to study it some more.

[Soundy 1]

The drill on slow is for actually driving in the screws... you'll want to use high speed for drilling the hole. A hammer drill is preferred, but a regular drill should be okay (if tedious) if the block is soft enough. You'll have the same problem drilling for the nylon plugs, too, BTW.

 

BTW, this little hammer-drilling adapter is a great device for limited use: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/DrillBitsSetsAccessories/PRD~0543859P/Mastercraft+Hammer+Drilling+Adaptor.jsp?locale=en

 

For a hollow block, depending on how thick/strong the walls are, you may want to try getting at least a couple screws into the webbing, whether it be at the ends of the block, or down the middle (H-block).

[nDAlk90 0]

You guys are all over complicating this. Drill your hole on a downward angle in the block, then you will be even able to support you PSU with nails.

[Soundy 1]

Except in a hollow block, the nails will slide right through

[nDAlk90 0]

Hollow blocks are usually back filled with concrete. Also the head of the nail will be holding against the metal casing of the PSU.

 

Why make this into an engineering "Modern Marvel"?

 

Except in a hollow block, the nails will slide right through

[jeromephone 6]

tapcons are the way to go if you can borrow a hammer drill you will soon go out a buy one once you see the difference

[vmgtlexi 0]

I went with heavy duty plastic anchors only b/c my cinder blocks seem much more brittle that new cinder blocks. I tested both the tapcons and the plastic anchors on a new store-bought block. Sure enough, in that block the tapcons worked great.

 

However, in my 50 year old blocks in my basement, when I started drilling the holes were really much more brittle (not structurally unsound, but just not as "tight" of a hole as in the new blocks).

 

So, the plastic inserts seemed to be a snugger fit for my needs. I used 4 of them for my 12.5 pound power box. Each anchor claims a few hundred pounds of shear strength in masonry, so I should be good to go, don't ya think!?!?

 

Just in case anyone else comes across this thread with similar questions, I wanted to share my results and decision.

[rory 0]

The biggest most expensive 24VAC Altronix PSU can be mounted with 4 small sheetrock screws into wood or concrete with basic wall plugs. Its not THAT heavy. Got one like that for several years now. Otherwise just use regular wall screws and plugs, nothing special about it.

[vmgtlexi 0]

I know! It just gives me a warm fuzzy to know that things I spend my time on will last 1,000 years all else being equal.

 

Our house may collapse due to the decaying of time, but some archaeologist will find this PSU attached to the cinder block and say, "wow, this guy really installed things to last forever!"

[Sawbones 0]

Swatting flies with a sledgehammer is a fine philosophy... I heartily endorse it.

[nDAlk90 0]

Is it?

 

Not to me.

 

Swatting flies with a sledgehammer is a fine philosophy

[rory 0]

I know! It just gives me a warm fuzzy to know that things I spend my time on will last 1,000 years all else being equal.

 

Our house may collapse due to the decaying of time, but some archaeologist will find this PSU attached to the cinder block and say, "wow, this guy really installed things to last forever!"

 

What happens when the PSU fries the next day?

Gotta take it right back down

[Ken Layton 0]

I use Toggler brand "SnapToggle" wall anchors. The BA series have 10-24 threads and the BB series have 1/4"-20 threads.

 

Here are the stock numbers of the above:

 

43311

 

43321

 

The threaded 'nut' stays in the hollow cinder block so you can remove the screw as many times as you want.

[Numb-nuts 1]

While we're on the subject of fixings, I was wondering

 

I have to fit a corner bracket for a PTZ onto aluminum / aluminium cladding.

Obviously I can't get behind the cladding or I would place nuts and washers.

 

I have thought about using nutserts but have never used these before. Any advice?

[tomcctv 190]

threaded rivits are ideal for clad fixings such as steel and aluminium.