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I tried to call Avermedia tech support and was on hold 30 mins before I gave up. Called back again later and I've been on hold now for 45 minutes. What gives? is this normal for tech support fro AverMedia? I called at 12:30pm my time, and again at 1:30pm. (I'm eastern time)

 

UPDATE: After 1hr on hold the system booted me. Called back again and got couple of busy signals then a human being, and he told me that the tech support for the DVR was handled by a different group and I can't call them - they have to call me. He opened a work order and took my name/number.

 

All I want to know if can the EB1304-MOB survive the crank when it's wired into the car so that the ignition switch turns it on....

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Sorry to not answer your question but if what you said about Avermedia is true then I will definatelly not go with them in my upcoming build! Its must be frustruating waiting 2 hours then the guy tells you, that the people must contact you.

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Do you call Detroit when your Ford needs brakes?

 

Why call Avermedia? They are the manufacturer, you should call your dealer. This is a quarter of the reason I exist. This is the mark of a good dealer vs. a bad dealer.

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Do you call Detroit when your Ford needs brakes?

 

Why call Avermedia? They are the manufacturer, you should call your dealer. This is a quarter of the reason I exist. This is the mark of a good dealer vs. a bad dealer.

 

Do you sell Aver products? Do you know the answer to my question?

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I think you are better off hardwire to the batt with a non illuminated quality switch and protect it with a fuse. Turn the unit on/off with the embedded power switch on the unit and then as a precaution you can kill all batt power to the unit with the switch bettween batt. untill needed.

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I think you are better off hardwire to the batt with a non illuminated quality switch and protect it with a fuse. Turn the unit on/off with the embedded power switch on the unit and then as a precaution you can kill all batt power to the unit with the switch bettween batt. untill needed.

 

That's not really how a mobile DVR is supposed to work, though. It is supposed to be hands-off, running when the car runs and turning off when the car turns off. At least thats what I thought... If I have to actively turn it on and off every time I get in the car then I might as well go back to my prior non-mobile DVR.

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I think you are better off hardwire to the batt with a non illuminated quality switch and protect it with a fuse. Turn the unit on/off with the embedded power switch on the unit and then as a precaution you can kill all batt power to the unit with the switch bettween batt. untill needed.

 

That's not really how a mobile DVR is supposed to work, though. It is supposed to be hands-off, running when the car runs and turning off when the car turns off. At least thats what I thought... If I have to actively turn it on and off every time I get in the car then I might as well go back to my prior non-mobile DVR.

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The margin your dealer makes is what controls how well they can support the products they sell. If you force them into an absolute lowest price issue you will only deal with dealers who provide no real support. They can't afford not to, support costs real money. This is for real with me, this is how my family eats. I'm sorry but thats just how it is.

 

 

 

You can probably take a ford on the fender style starter solenoid and put that inline with the battery hot lead. Then bring a circuit from the ignition on side to energize the solenoid. This will make it go while the car is on and stop when the car is off.

 

Or you could get a better battery and let it go 24/7.

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According to the specs for your unit it states that the power should be direct to vehicle batt and also that the unit should be turned on/off through the unit as needed to avoid batt drain when motor is off, the reason I suggested the switch was as a added safety. If you wanna energize the unit through your ignition or a fused acc. then ok .....often there are reasons for specs on sensitive electrical gear.

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Avermedia Tech Support calls you back and answers email the same day.

I'd suggest calling them if you can wait, if not, call me

 

concerning the "hook-up"; http://www.aver.com/dvr/eb1304mob_feature.html

 

even though is does not say it in your words......your safe to crank away.

 

concerning dealers & support; check rep & references before you by. ASK for a list of references.

 

 

Overall experience with Avermedia to date has been very good. I ask and I receive good answers. But, the better part is, what I've installed to date has made my clients very impressed and I have not had to reboot one, work around anything, reload jack, to date. PC based cards also work off XP Home vice having to have Pro. Vista is on the map......

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Avermedia Tech Support calls you back and answers email the same day.

I'd suggest calling them if you can wait, if not, call me

 

concerning the "hook-up"; http://www.aver.com/dvr/eb1304mob_feature.html

 

even though is does not say it in your words......your safe to crank away.

 

concerning dealers & support; check rep & references before you by. ASK for a list of references.

 

 

Overall experience with Avermedia to date has been very good. I ask and I receive good answers. But, the better part is, what I've installed to date has made my clients very impressed and I have not had to reboot one, work around anything, reload jack, to date. PC based cards also work off XP Home vice having to have Pro. Vista is on the map......

 

 

Cool, didn't see that at first - I'll take "operates at lower than normal operating voltage" = survives the crank.

 

The manual says if the dvr is connected directly to the "batter" then I should stop the recording and shut off the DVR so I don't "Run out of battery". Considering this is a standard mobile DVR that is also used in bus fleets around the world, I'd have to say that making the driver remember to pull out the remtoe control, hit stop, then power off the dvr using the tiny little fingernail on/off switch is pretty unrealistic.

 

I have to believe it's built to simply lose power and still shut down gracefully. If not then they should have a seperate power and trigger inputs that would allow the DVR to maintain main battery power ling enough to gracefully stop recording and then shut down & go into a zero-power-draw hibernate mode when the trigger input is off.

 

I know there is an alarm input, but the DVR would still be fully powered even when the alarms inputs are off, and would still run down the battery.

 

Manual says 4 cameras plus DVR = 2amps. How long would a fully-charged car battery last at 2 amps draw?

 

EDIT: Optyima Yellowtop for my car is 48AmhHours. That would give me 24 hours until my battery was dead if I ran the DVR constantly. Sometimes I don't drive the car for a couple days at a time, so that won't work. Battery Buddy?

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