Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Welcome Charlie! Billy in Tennessee here. I'm here to learn modern technology and software.
  2. 1 point
    Yes that's right what will you be using the system for ...home or business use ?
  3. 1 point
    Hi. It depends on which nvr you are going to use . It needs to be compatible some nvrs are only 2mp recording some are 5mp or 4k
  4. 1 point
    I have 16 cameras plus an IP camera in the pond on live only I use the ptzs linked to alarm sensors so when a PIR sensor triggers the ptz within the area will turn to the alarm area and home in on the part
  5. 1 point
    As far as I understand, FreePBX is simply a project adding a working webIf to asterisk. So everything should work as it does with a base asterisk. I run a asterisk on raspbian, no special version, just the stuff that you get with apt-get.
  6. 1 point
    Hi. No need to take anything down .....your network is only used for remote viewing with only using two 5mp your ok but I would look at adding later 4mp and even 2mp is small areas or you will need to drop FPS also remember you can use any tvi camera or 4 in 1 camera does not need to be hikvision if you have not bought anything yet I would pic TVT over hikvision security industry had another report yesterday on hik hack
  7. 1 point
    Hi either use ip cameras or get yourself a capture card and use analog .....analog is out of date so I would look at ip cameras. but a nvr is always better
  8. 1 point
    There are two ways to go about this: Find the output current rating on the power supply (I assume the Lorex NVR powers the cameras?) and multiply that by its output voltage. That will give you its approximate max wattage. UPS' are rated in VA (volt-amps), but it'll be close enough. The other way is to actually measure the current draw on the AC side using a true RMS ammeter. (That's the best way.) Then multiply the measured current draw times the line voltage. Next you have to determine whether the point is to protect your surveillance system and allow it to survive short-term outages, or to have it stay up for an extended time when there's an outage. (I note you list a "12V 10" PSU. If that's 12V at 10A, which would probably be about right for an 8-camera system [assuming about 15W/camera], then your want a minimum 120VA UPS. Depending upon the design, that may give you anywhere from 5-10 minutes of uptime [SWAG]). To a degree you can extend uptime by going with a higher-than-recommend-VA UPS, but there are diminishing returns with each bump in VA capacity. Reason is reduced efficiencies as UPS VA capacity goes up. For truly extended runtime you need an "extended runtime" UPS. They don't have greater VA capacity, but more battery. (They also take longer to recover because there's more battery capacity to charge back up. There ain't no free lunches.) E.g.: With a 120W load, a 120VA UPS may give you about 5-10 minutes of uptime, but a 360VA UPS won't necessarily give you 15-30 minutes. In fact: My old power-hog Dell 1600SC server had a 700VA APC SmartUPS on it. The computer + peripherals drew about 200W. The UPS had a runtime of only fifteen minutes with brand new batteries. Speaking of batteries: Make sure to buy a UPS with user-replaceable batteries. They have about a three-year lifespan. Also: Get in the habit of doing run-time tests about every quarter or so, to extend battery life. The UPS manufacturer should have a chart listing estimated run times for each of their UPS' vs. expected loads.
  9. 1 point
    Hi there, I just want to inform you in my case I do not receive anymore the notifications on my mobile phone (gDMSS Plus) when someone rings on the door. It looks to be a general issue Dahua must solve after Google has changed the push service , see reply from my vendor : This afternoon it has been revealed that Google has changed the push service for a number of Android versions and this has impact on a large part of the Android devices using IMOU or GDMSS. This implies that Dahua must solve it, just Dahua is currently celebrating Chinese New Year, which makes the solution just waiting a bit longer. Hope it can help you if you are in the same situation.
  10. 1 point
    Any time you allow Internet access to anything the threat level goes from "very little" to "a lot," regardless of what you try to do to mitigate it. For starters: Login access to your router from the Internet should be entirely prohibited. Period. Incoming connections should be on a "that which is not explicitly allowed is denied" basis. Proper, explicit port-forwarding rules should see to that. Default accounts should be disabled. Or at least have passwords or pass phrases so incredibly long and complicated they might as well be. If login access has any "break in attempt" detection, that can temporarily blacklist source addresses that get an account i.d. and/or password wrong "X number of times in time T," that will tend to slow attackers down so badly the likelihood of success is vanishingly low. Regarding LAN security: It's wise, when possible, to use VLANs and isolate IoT devices to their own VLANs. Also: If IoT devices do not need access to the Internet (e.g.: cameras talking to a local NVR have no need to swap spit with anything on the Internet, other than to occasionally check for firmware updates), they should be prohibited from doing so, either by putting them on their own network segments, using VLANs that don't have access to the Internet gateway, or by blocking them at the gateway. (VLANs enforced by managed Ethernet switches are more secure than border-router blocking. Separate LANs, isolated with internal routers are even more secure.) Lastly: You have to put it in perspective. Unless you're a bank, government entity or some other high-value target: Odds are anybody taking a shot at you is just what we call "knob-twisting" in the I.T. security field. They'll get in if they can, but it's unlikely anybody will mount a concerted attack against you. You're probably at greater risk from what you receive in email and what you browse with your web browser than you are with your NVR and cameras.
  11. 1 point
    I uploaded it here: VTO+VTH multilingual firmware I hope the "chinese-portuguese" is better than the "chinese-german"... If you don't like the sounds in your language, you either step back to an old SIP firmware as I did (where you are still able to personalize every sound file!) or you wait for a working V4 firmware, where you are at least able to deactivate the sounds. Too bad, that dahua does not implement a "sound" upload option. I guess, this would not be hard to implement but it would make this little device the only one on the market with such options.
  12. 1 point
    That is not necessarily critical. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to tell you how to build a watch so you'll understand what I'm telling you when I tell you the time Residential power in the U.S. is nearly invariably what's called "split phase." 240VAC (nominal) single-phase power from a center-tapped transformer arrives at your distribution (aka: "breaker") panel. One side of that goes to one side of the panel, the other to the other side. The breaker boxes are designed such that every other breaker on each side is on the same side of the split phase. Let's call them "L1" and "L2". (Because that's how they're actually labelled ;).) Between L1 or L2 and neutral is 120VAC. Between L1 and L2 is 240VAC. 120VAC breakers connect only to L1 or L2, and neutral is used for the "return." 240VAC breakers connect to both L1 and L2. (Either one could be said to be the supply or return. Supply/return really doesn't apply to L1/L2.) Where powerline Ethernet adaptors (and a lot of powerline home automation gear, such as X10) run into trouble is when one node is on L1/neutral and the other is on L2/neutral. The signals often don't make it across very well. With that, now, perhaps, you'll understand this: That your garage has or will have it's own breaker panel isn't quite as critical as which side of the split phase power each adaptor ends-up on. And, with this and my explanation of how a WiFi bridge might work for you, now perhaps you'll understand why I earlier wrote that either WiFi or powerline will work better, depending upon the particular site.
  13. 1 point
    Hi. That all makes sense yes i would go IP system just put rj45 plugs on end of your cat5 and plug direct into nvr recorder .... no need for power supplies what is your budget ? also what computer system do you use windows or Mac
  14. 1 point
    We’re are you located dvr or nvr they are both standalone under staires ...... is this like a open plan some recorders give off a little noise so something to think about
  15. 1 point
    Hi, I uploaded to the most recent version I could find, I managed to upload directly and didn't need any intermidiate firmware. Sorry I don't remember which site I downlaoded from.
  16. 1 point
    Ok I registered so I could give some feedback. I have a Lorex 4K camera system that has only six wires on the Camera side of the RJ 45 and 2nd plug, and I used corresponding chart above to solder the connections because my female lorex corroded within a week when the lorex weatherproof cover failed - so I needed to connect direct and bypass the female end of the lorex camera to the cat5e. The good news is using the diagrams above, everything works perfectly (audio and video) and they are 4K Cameras. Here’s the tip, the wires are so small the best way to get them connected directly or solder them together is to twist them together with the insulation still on them, and put the soldering gun tip on the insulation on both wires at once, and solder them at the same time using this method. The insulation melts, exposes the wires, and solders them solid. IMHO there is no other way since the wires will break when just trying to strip insulation off of them. Thats my give back and thanks to those above for the diagram...it worked flawlessly. Jim
  17. 1 point
    Hello all. I'm an electronics tech looking for a video recording system to order either as an all in one system or piecing together the right components to make my own. I wanted to introduce myself since I'm new here and was doing some research for a system for our research dept. I'm looking to present 3 options: a barebone system, something in the middle, and a high end system. As far as the system goes, I am looking for the following: At least 4 Cameras High Resolution Great Zoom (Cameras will be mounted on top of a mast from as far as 10' or closer, but need to be able to have really good focus) One with a HDD The ability to network the system for remote access Durability (It's going to reside in an industrial environment) Remote focusing would be a plus Thanks for any help or routing me in the right direction.
  18. 1 point
    No .... if you come on with camera awful then there has to be a reason. calibrating is done on the camera ... it’s done while installing does zoneminder do 4k yet ? does it do h265 ? RTSP ..... I think you will find onvif is the best way explain why you should defend h264 ? Are you using 4k Why ..... because you don’t like to hear that your cameras are not compatible with what you using with them. So your expecting 8mp/4k on equipment that can’t get you there You will need to load software for cam onto pc then go into settings .....being on zoneminder I would also drop resolution down to 4mp .... not 8. Then go into camera zoom and move far out then in and then set it to distance needed then click save
  19. 1 point
    Well that’s your problem........RTSP stream. Why are you messing around with VCL also no camera functions with zoneminder also running at wrong compression. its easy to blame the product....than to set it up right. and to give you a hint on not setup your images are nothing like 2mp never mind 8mp
  20. 1 point
    I can't answer any questions about how many cameras you'll be able to view at once, because I'm relatively new to video surveillance gear, myself, and it'll depend upon your software in any event. But, as a retired Systems, Network & TelCom Admin with over 25 years experience building and maintaining networks (LANs, WANs, WLANs) for a living I'm going to suggest cameras <-> switch <-> powerline <-> router <-> powerline <-> NVR is probably not going to result in a happy outcome. First of all, powerline adaptors have highly variable performance, depending upon a variety of unpredictable factors. At the very least I'd obtain a pair and do network bandwidth, latency and error rate tests between Point A and Point B, then Point B and Point C before proceeding. I'd be surprised if you got sufficient low-error-rate bandwidth to support eight video streams. Secondly: It has been my experience that most routers (and I'm making the assumption you probably have either a common consumer-grade or cable company device) tend to be sub-optimal as network switches. Particularly common WiFi routers. In my opinion, based on experience: Switches to switch, routers to route, and WiFi access points to provide wireless access. Avoid WiFi and powerline where wired is feasible. As to WiFi vs. powerline: Whichever works best, which is highly site-dependant.
  21. 1 point
    Hi I've got a Dahua IP cam & I need to change the logo that appears while I access through a web interface? Is that possible if I choose to change it from firmware file (the bin file)?
  22. 1 point
    Hi. No don’t update Remove your no ip account Your using the Apollo ... good system Delete your no ip and follow the link I have sent to your PM Much more secure and protected
  23. 1 point
    I got the same error, but everything local. I got one PC and one camera. Downloaded latest iVMS 4200 (2.4.xxx). Installed storage server and format a drive. Motion detection alarms works fine, but I can´t play the recorded. Probably nothing is recorded at all. Can´t understand how to configure this software that seems to be powerful, but a nightmare to config. Thanks, Magnus
  24. 1 point
    Forget the ryobi if you want to get your work done with tools that can handle it, not ones that are for light duty homeowner stuff. I have 98% makita....here is a link to the vac (yes, they do have one) i have it and it's great...they have either vac only, if you already own makita battery and charger or they sell full kit... http://www.amazon.com/Makita-BCL180W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B0039ITKLU Check out this pic of my enclosed work trailer....2 shelves of mostly makita power tools (cordless)...also have some corded sds drills and what not, not in this pic.. You can see the vac in this pic though
  25. 1 point
    I have to say that the standard of CCTV work I have experienced in the UK is very good in the main. I have learned a bit from remedial works, I have seen the way other's do things and in some cases I have changed the way I do things because I have seen a better way of doing something.
This leaderboard is set to Chicago/GMT-05:00
×